Dates: 1 June to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
It has been reported that either Peregrines or Kesterels are nesting on the popular route Shadow Wall on Carreg Wastad, with eggs and one unfledged chick on the nest.
As these birds and their nests are legally protected, climbers are asked to avoid climbing the routes Shadow Wall to Trilon inclusive until the birds have fledged at the end of July.
Rockfax Description
Fantastic rock and positions make this a must-do route. Start about 15m right from where the crag base starts to rise, below a scruffy groove with large holly tree.
1) 15m. Climb the crack/groove to a ledge, move left to belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Follow a well-trodden traverse-line left to the arete. Swing boldly onto the arete and follow the polished holds to a ledge. Take the short wall above to a sloping ledge to belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb up easily rightwards to a corner and follow it to about 2m before the roof. Make a tricky traverse left to finish up a short corner/crack onto a long terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Requires good rope-work if bringing up two seconds! From just left of the large corner of Erosion Groove climb a short gulley to the steep section above. Traverse left on good footholds, rocking out onto the far left arete, with good exposure. Climb straight upwards to a large belay ledge. Climb right from the belay to a short crack. Climb this, moving back left to another crackline that leads, with the possibility of some jamming, to a short scramble top-out. Enjoy the views!
Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , The Julia Bradbury Collection , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , Mountain Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Big Routes 2020 , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales - routes to do with Kloe
User | Date | Notes | ||
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FallingBrick | 18 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Recommend belay low at the first ledge to make use of sling placement. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Recommend belay low at the first ledge to make use of sling placement. |
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C Witter | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Pleasant, straight-forward, well-protected, not particularly polished. Bit scrappy in places, but a great position. The best section is the traverse out to and up the arete. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasant, straight-forward, well-protected, not particularly polished. Bit scrappy in places, but a great position. The best section is the traverse out to and up the arete. |
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gazj1986 | 3 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 3. Traversey | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 3. Traversey |
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Evak | 16 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Very polished! Not a good route for total novice | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very polished! Not a good route for total novice |
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Grade: S ***
(Clogwyn y Ddysgl)