Website rockfax.com
Review
The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.
The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.
Other editions of this guidebook
Dorset Rockfax (2012)
Dorset Rockfax (2005)
Dorset Rockfax (2000)
Dorset Rockfax (1994)
Dorset crags | # climbs | Rocktype | Faces |
---|---|---|---|
Battleship Back Cliff | 110 | Limestone | W |
Battleship Edge | 82 | Limestone | W |
Beeston Cliff | 84 | Limestone | E |
Blackers Hole | 82 | Limestone | S |
Blacknor Beach | 273 | Limestone | all |
Blacknor Central | 110 | Limestone | SW |
Blacknor Far South | 73 | Limestone | W |
Blacknor North | 131 | Limestone | W |
Blacknor South | 83 | Limestone | W |
Boulder Ruckle | 291 | Limestone | S |
Cattle Troughs | 108 | Limestone | S |
Cave Hole | 120 | Limestone | E |
Cheyne Cliff | 332 | Limestone | E |
Coastguard North | 60 | Limestone | W |
Coastguard South | 101 | Limestone | W |
Cormorant Ledge | 45 | Limestone | S |
Dancing Ledge | 179 | Limestone | S |
Dungecroft Quarry | 74 | Limestone | E |
Fisherman's Ledge | 134 | Limestone | S |
Godnor | 104 | Limestone | E |
Guillemot Ledge | 72 | Limestone | S |
Hedbury | 117 | Limestone | S |
Lighthouse Area | 410 | Limestone | all |
Lost Valley | 86 | Limestone | all |
Lulworth | 245 | Limestone | S |
Neddyfields | 157 | Limestone | E |
Nicodemus Knob | 47 | Limestone | SW |
Southwell Landslips | 214 | Limestone | all |
Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff | 136 | Limestone | S |
The Cuttings | 176 | Limestone | SE |
The New Cuttings | 120 | Limestone | SE |
The Promenade | 150 | Limestone | S |
Wallsend North | 147 | Limestone | W |
Wallsend South | 136 | Limestone | W |
White Hole | 70 | Limestone | SW |
Winspit | 199 | Limestone | S |
A large block has fallen off this climb removing all of the first corner crack feature to the right of the narrow ledge. I don't know if this climb can still be done but if it can it's much harder than 5c. This could be 6c or harder now to mantle the narrow ledge and make it past the second bolt (at least I couldn't do it anyway).
The topo for these three climbs are in the incorrect places within the Rockfax 2021 guidebook and the Rockfax App Line 14: "Thin on top" should be where line 15 "Samphire and Steel" is marked. There's no bolts where this route is marked. Line 15: "Samphire and Steel" should be where line 16 is marked Line 16: "More Soap, Less Shampoo" should be further over to the right
View correction imageLines too far left in printed Dorset. Correct now on Rockfax Digital.
View correction image