Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
Climb the pleasant crack to the bulges and lace it with gear. Then pull up and right to find tricky-to-place runners and one more balancy move to reach easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke, Gary Cooper 1978.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ABark | 8 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the ones underneath were good and you can get at least one half-decent nut once you're through the crux. The top section is still a little tricky. I reckon it's soft E2 but the crux is 5c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the ones underneath were good and you can get at least one half-decent nut once you're through the crux. The top section is still a little tricky. I reckon it's soft E2 but the crux is 5c. |
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| Neil Binns | 5 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route. Didn't think this was particularly reachy and I'm 5'8''. Managed to get gear in after the crux so didn't find it bold | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. Didn't think this was particularly reachy and I'm 5'8''. Managed to get gear in after the crux so didn't find it bold |
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| John H Bull | 4 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: A full grade easier than Cathy's Clown, with a bivvy ledge to go for post-crux. E2 5b, if that. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A full grade easier than Cathy's Clown, with a bivvy ledge to go for post-crux. E2 5b, if that. |
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| Ropeboy | 11 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: One well protected tricky move followed by an easier but bolder couple of moves lead to an exciting mantel onto a grassy ledge before the top is reached. Quite good route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One well protected tricky move followed by an easier but bolder couple of moves lead to an exciting mantel onto a grassy ledge before the top is reached. Quite good route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
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Nuclear Device
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Great Rocks Dale)