UKC Logbook - Portland for the beginner (lead climbs)

Contributed by devilesslover Sep/12 - This public ticklist has been seen 33,621 times

A selection of routes for a beginner lead climber (like myself) to try and build confidence and to avoid boredom while improving climbing ability... All around Portland

Fallen slab arete, Portland. © Chris Beck — Fallen slab arete, Portland.
© Chris Beck, Apr 2016

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	Hidden	97%	10 Aug, 2023
2nd	Hidden	83%	8 Oct, 2022
3rd	Hidden	81%	31 May, 2019
4th	dereke12000	75%	1 Aug, 2021
5th	crispygts	69%	3 Mar
6th	jammo	66%	30 Apr
7th	el_monty	64%	15 May, 2023
8th	Pottsy84	62%	10 Feb
9th	Paul Hicks	60%	9 Dec, 2017
10th	junglie848	56%	19 Sep, 2021

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades

Trad

Sport

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Jamming the crack, full on arm jam glory

Jeremy Whittles repeating his route 'The Alpha and the Omega' F3+ at Dungecroft Quarry, Portland

'Heart Stoppingly Brutal' F4 at Wallsend North, Portland

Possibly the best easy route at the cuttings...

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Valerie's Patio	3a *	996	13m		Godnor
2	Tombstone	3c **	1395	14m		Godnor
3	Chapter and Verse	6a	98	6m		Lost Valley
4	Oatsheaf, Chief	6a+	44	6m		Lost Valley
5	Flake Away	4a *	610	?		Lost Valley
6	Sweet Dreams are Made of This	3c *	507	?		Lost Valley
7	Plastic Tractor	3c	318	?		Lost Valley
8	Bundle of Joy	4a *	941	12m		Neddyfields
9	White Stones (Original version)	5c	8	?		Godnor
10	Big Slab Variant	4c *	26	11m		Godnor
11	Kung Fu Panda	4c *	706	9m		Godnor
12	Bariatric	4a	18	7m		Cheyne Cliff
13	Never Ignore A Pooh-Pooh	2c	199	?		Dungecroft Quarry
14	Doris Does Dungecroft	3a	204	9m		Dungecroft Quarry
15	Trust me I'm a Doctor	3a	200	?		Dungecroft Quarry
16	The Alpha and The Omega	3c *	348	?		Dungecroft Quarry
17	The Cookie Monster	3a	326	?		Dungecroft Quarry
18	Make Cookies Not War	5a *	371	?		Dungecroft Quarry
19	Eat, Stick and Die	3a	638	6m		The Cuttings
20	We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel	3b	747	6m		The Cuttings
21	Arc Angel	3a	505	7m		The Cuttings
22	Charity Work Mate	3a	515	7m		The Cuttings
23	Magical Misty Tour	4a	575	7m		The Cuttings
24	Bonsai	3c	601	8m		The Cuttings
25	Baron's Revenge	3c	413	?		The Cuttings
26	Chicken Boy	3c	330	?		The Cuttings
27	Tantrums and Tiaras	4a	404	?		The Cuttings
28	100 Sunny Days	3c *	802	?		The Cuttings
29	Jam	4c **	1850	11m		The Cuttings
30	Opus	5a **	1505	17m		The Cuttings
31	Whispering Gallery	2c	595	6m		The Cuttings
32	Queen of the New Year	3a	647	6m		The Cuttings
33	Sun Trap	3a *	830	?		The Cuttings
34	The Bumper Fun Book	4a *	831	?		The Cuttings
35	Godbeams	4c *	871	?		The Cuttings
36	Ladybower	3a *	412	?		The Cuttings
37	The Naughty Corner	4b	111	11m		The Cuttings
38	Don't Bring Your Mum	2a	38	6m		The Cuttings
39	Voices in the Bower	3c **	972	18m		The Cuttings
40	Voracious Animal of the Weasel Family	3b	134	?		Wallsend North
41	Heart Stoppingly Brutal	4c *	173	?		Wallsend North
42	Up the Apples and Pears	2c	46	10m		Wallsend North
43	Sylvia Sunset	2c	52	9m		Wallsend North
44	Magnum Farce	2c	49	9m		Wallsend North
45	Easy Like a Sunday Morning	2c	54	9m		Wallsend North
46	Miss Jones	3c	3	10m		Wallsend North
47	We are Stardust	4a	57	?		Wallsend South
48	Six Good Biceps	4c **	916	15m		Blacknor Beach
49	Fallen Slab Arête	3a ***	3303	25m		Blacknor Beach
50	Fallen Slab	3a ***	2832	22m		Blacknor Beach
51	Slabtastic (Sunday Swing)	3a *	739	10m		Blacknor Beach
52	Suburban Dave	3a *	630	10m		Blacknor Beach
53	Sketchtastic	3a *	606	?		Blacknor Beach
54	A Nugget of Purest Green	4a	195	?		Blacknor Beach
55	Vertical Thrill	4a *	332	10m		Blacknor Beach
56	Reinheitsgebot	4a	70	11m		Blacknor North
57	Absolute Beginners	2c	41	6m		Blacknor North
58	Solar Flare	3c *	49	8m		Blacknor Beach
59	Sea of Tranquillity	S 4a *	45	9m		Blacknor Beach
60	Moonshine	5a *	103	9m		Blacknor Beach
61	Walking on the Moon	5c *	42	12m		Blacknor Beach
62	Lunar Eclipse	3c *	106	9m		Blacknor Beach
63	Half Moon	4b *	46	8m		Blacknor Beach
64	Imperfect	3c *	1474	10m		Blacknor South
65	Rough Diamond	4b **	469	?		Blacknor Beach
66	Diamond Boulder	4a **	668	15m		Blacknor Beach
67	Diamond Edge	4b **	557	16m		Blacknor Beach
68	Best Destiny	4c **	818	20m		Blacknor Central
69	Quality Family Day	4c **	1668	?		The Cuttings
70	Sunseeker	2c *	372	?		Blacknor South
71	Don't Kill Me	4a *	624	?		Blacknor South
72	Vertically Challenged	3b *	708	?		Blacknor South
73	Sunny Delight	3c *	493	?		Blacknor South
74	Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun	3c *	531	?		Blacknor South
75	The Mighty Bush	5a *	434	?		Blacknor South
76	Do Ixtlan	5b *	1674	10m		Blacknor South
77	Dark Side of the Moon	6a *	102	9m		Blacknor Beach
78	Diamond Solitaire	3a *	281	10m		Blacknor Beach
79	Portland Snowshine	3c *	280	10m		Blacknor Beach
80	My Little Buddha	2c *	769	9m		Blacknor Beach
81	The Bolt Factory	4c *	373	9m		Blacknor Beach
82	Desireless	4a *	138	13m		Blacknor Far South
83	Serendipity	4b *	205	?		Battleship Edge
84	April Skies	5a *	299	?		Battleship Edge
85	Spare the Fern Right-hand	4c	35	?		Blacknor Far South
86	Braer Rabbit	4b *	1157	9m		Battleship Back...
87	This is This	5a *	1215	9m		Battleship Back...
88	Like a Drowning Man	4b *	868	9m		Battleship Back...
89	I'm Doing it Anyway	4a *	1111	10m		Battleship Back...
90	Dr. Sole and Mr. Sole	3c	884	6m		Battleship Back...
91	Never Lead a Numb Existence	4a	809	7m		Battleship Back...
92	Phil's Route	4a *	991	8m		Battleship Back...
93	Days of Heaven	4c	920	9m		Battleship Back...
94	Limestone Cowboy	4c *	887	8m		Battleship Back...
95	Cat Juggling	4c	528	7m		Battleship Back...
96	More Soap, Less Shampoo	4c	184	8m		Battleship Back...
97	Hate the Sin and Love the Sinner	5c	705	10m		Battleship Back...
98	Amazonia	4c *	1465	10m		The Cuttings
		73 stars	56,826	655m	98