UKC

Static rope recommendations

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 smbnji 29 Apr 2024

 Hello!

I'm after 50m static for:

  • Sea cliff abs
  • Working routes

And another 20m for general anchor rigging. Any recommendations? Static seems to be sold (at climbing/outdoor retailers) for the following uses:

  • Industry (Beal Industrie, Beal Intervention, Petzl Axis)
  • Caving (Petzl Club)
  • Climbing (Petzl Parallel, Beal Spelenium)

Are all static ropes suitable for all my requirements, or some better than others? I hear some are more difficult tying knots than others...

Is diameter only really a trade-off between weight and durability? I'm currently thinking 50m+20m of Beal Spelenium 10.5mm, any reasons this would/wouldn't be suitable/optimal?

Cheers!

 Kevster 29 Apr 2024
In reply to smbnji:

Sucking eggs I'm sure.

It depends where you sea cliff climb, 50m could quite conceivably be short. As I'm sure you understand that the height of the cliff is not necessarily the length of rope needed, especially if your anchors are fence posts/ quite far back etc. 

Ab ropes all become hard to hank/ handle/ tie knots in with use, this is especially true if they get wet (and salty). Indeed I'd describe hanking an ab rope thats well used more as "folding". The thicker they are the worse this can be, and can at times create problems with descending too.

But if you're dangling about, a thicker rope gives you confidence. So too does a decent set up with rope protectors. 

As for the differences between models, if you climb on granite, then luck (and skill in use) is probably as much a factor as model? someone with authority will no doubt be along for a comparison. Stick an ab down a popular descent on a bank holiday weekend and it'll get battered by every passing climber - prob being a little unfair to some climbers there - many do care about others kit. At least if the rope is long, then you can cut sections off - wear at the top and stuck in the sea bottoms... hopefully not the middle of course. If you climb a gentler rock, then longevity and model may correlate. I dont think I've ever had a rope that has "worn out" all over as an ab rope. They've always got too short or cut in half.

OP smbnji 30 Apr 2024
In reply to Kevster:

Thanks for the info! 

 Alun 01 May 2024
In reply to smbnji:

Can’t be of much help except to say that a semi-static is usually preferred for working routes, as even a small slump on a static can hurt your back!

1
 EdS 01 May 2024
In reply to smbnji:

they are all semi-static ropes not static. Avoid true static rope.

You want a type A rope rather than Type B really (or type L cord)

Have a word with Tony over at Starless River

Gleistein Geostatic is an excellent Type A rope (one ofthe best caving ropes) - plus being 9mm it is lighter than most Type A that tend to be 10mm or more.

https://starlessriver.com/shop/gleistein-geostatic-9mm-100m-length/

1
 CantClimbTom 01 May 2024
In reply to smbnji:

In my experience, Petzl club 10mm is a boingier semi static than most. To the point that 2 different people thought I might have been mistaken and brought a dynamic by mistake. This may be good thing or bad thing depending on opinion 


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