UKC Logbook - Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall

Contributed by George Muston Aug/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 280 times

The best routes in West Penwith for honing your trad skills. Routes are listed in order of difficulty, both in terms of the order they have been listed, and the grade by which they have been divided. I've included everything up to low/mid grade HVS. I can't give you any of the individual info on any of the routes on here, so if there's anything you want to know firstly check UKC comments, and/or secondly drop me a line. I will send you separately a list of hazards you need to be aware of for each crag. Mega classics like Commando Ridge and Right Angle have not been included as you will want CONSIDERABLE experience of ropework/abseiling, and the like before you do them in order to enjoy them properly. Esoteric but good crags have been left out, these will be worth exploring when you have the experience needed, but not before. You will want/need a copy of West Country Climbs and/or the Climbers Club North and South Coast Cornwall guidebooks. Enjoy!

Jen topping out on Doorway © victorsolberg — Jen topping out on Doorway
© victorsolberg, Apr 2021

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	George Muston	68%	11 Apr, 2022
2nd	JenkinsCW	22%	30 May
3rd	L.Bruten	13%	29 May, 2021
4th	James Coates	8%	5 Sep, 2020
5th	a.lloydharris	7%	6 May
6th	Joshua Brumpton	5%	27 Sep, 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route

First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago.

Getting some in between the showers. Luwi following Fraser up Shorty's Folly.

If only that top layback was longer....!

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	DIFF
1	Corner and Staircase	D *	967	13m		Roche Rock
2	Junior's Route	D **	669	20m		Sennen
3	Senior's Route	D *	903	20m		Sennen
4	Staircase	D **	1709	18m		Sennen
5	A Little Gemma	D *	107	20m		Pen Olver
6	Main Face Climb	D **	860	23m	• 2	Sennen
7	Alison Rib	D ***	4033	59m	• 3	Bosigran
8	Sinner's Route	D **	569	24m	• 2	Sennen
9	Black Slab	D **	1356	43m	• 2	Bosigran
10	The Groove	D	203	12m		Trewavas
	VDIFF
11	Bending Chimney	VD *	518	17m		Trewavas
12	Ivy Chimney	VD	331	14m		Trewavas
13	Blind Pew	VD **	273	25m		Pen Olver
14	Great Slanting	VD **	224	15m		Pen Olver
15	Sancho	VD *	488	18m		Trewavas
16	In-Between	VD **	1674	33m		Bosigran
17	Kate	VD *	1034	33m		Bosigran
18	Big Top	VD *	1441	25m		Bosigran
19	Corner Climb	VD **	2085	20m		Sennen
20	Banana Flake	VD **	1735	22m	• 2	Sennen
21	Black Slab	VD *	832	24m	• 2	Sennen
22	Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face	VD ***	266	42m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
23	Peel Crack	HVD **	390	15m		Carn Barra
24	Rake's Progress	VD **	186	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
25	Oread	HVD *	1348	33m		Bosigran
26	Intermediate Route	HVD *	1159	19m	• 2	Sennen
27	No Name	HVD **	694	20m		Sennen
28	Ledge Climb	HVD ***	1687	73m	• 3	Bosigran
29	South East Buttress	VD **	484	18m		Roche Rock
	SEVERE
30	Mouseproof	S 4a *	676	13m		Trewavas
31	Tregagle's Crack	S 4a *	786	8m		Roche Rock
32	Hubble Drect	S 4a	160	15m		Trewavas
33	Joy	S 4a *	878	18m		Trewavas
34	Ochre Slab Route II	S 4a **	1108	32m	• 2	Bosigran
35	Saltheart	S 4a *	169	15m		Pen Olver
36	Doorway	S 4a **	2060	60m	• 3	Bosigran
37	Pendulum Chimney	S 4b ***	1064	59m	• 5	Chair Ladder
38	Helluva Slab	S 4a **	291	43m	• 3	Porthgwarra...
39	Dong	S 4b **	775	39m	• 3	Bosigran
40	Red Wall	HS 4b **	315	54m	• 4	Chair Ladder
	HARD SEVERE
41	Cornel	HS 4b *	389	12m		Trewavas
42	Sidestep	HS 4b *	213	17m		Trewavas
43	Tregagle's Buttress	HS 4b **	474	8m		Roche Rock
44	Doorpost	HS 4b ***	3836	67m	• 3	Bosigran
45	Autumn Flakes	HS 4b **	1011	56m	• 3	Bosigran
46	Flannel Avenue	HS 4b ***	370	52m	• 3	Chair Ladder
47	Demo Route	HS 4b ***	3660	19m	• 2	Sennen
48	Terrier's Tooth	HS 4b ***	539	40m	• 3	Chair Ladder
49	Letterbox	HS 4b **	1020	22m	• 2	Sennen
50	Civvy Route	HS 4b **	1077	22m	• 2	Sennen
51	Pegasus	HS 4b ***	701	70m	• 3	Chair Ladder
	GOOD FIRST VS'S
52	Moping Owl	VS 4c *	351	19m		Roche Rock
53	Mascara	VS 4c **	690	20m		Trewavas
54	Joy Direct	VS 4c *	240	18m		Trewavas
55	Vertical Crack	VS 4c **	1172	20m		Sennen
56	Double Overhang	VS 4c **	1150	18m		Sennen
57	Avalanche	VS 5a **	535	14m		Trewavas
58	Porky	VS 4c **	820	17m		Roche Rock
59	The Arête	VS 4b **	918	27m		Sennen
60	Monday Face	VS 4b **	805	20m		Sennen
61	Seal Slab	VS 4c **	488	58m	• 3	Chair Ladder
62	Nameless	VS 4c ***	1055	58m	• 3	Bosigran
63	Zig Zag	VS 4c **	705	49m	• 3	Bosigran
64	Songs from a Gentle Man	VS 4b **	150	25m		Pen Olver
65	Venusberg	VS 4c **	752	51m	• 5	Bosigran
66	Ding	VS 4c **	868	42m	• 2	Bosigran
	TRICKIER VS'S
67	The Royal Forester	VS 4c **	392	27m		Zennor Cliff
68	Little Brown Jug	VS 5a ***	2593	66m	• 3	Bosigran
69	Aerial	VS 4c **	276	47m	• 3	Chair Ladder
70	Sam's Indirect Finish to Bending Chimney	VS 5a **	122	18m		Trewavas
71	Africa Route	VS 5a **	1071	18m		Sennen
72	Cress Cendo	VS 5a **	183	32m	• 2	St. Loy Cliff
73	Axis	VS 5a **	447	18m		Carn Barra
74	Anvil Chorus	VS 4c ***	1763	54m	• 5	Bosigran
75	South Face Direct	VS 4c ***	1287	59m	• 4	Chair Ladder
76	Carrivick	VS 5a *	162	14m		Trewavas
77	Super Crack	VS 4c *	90	43m	• 2	Carn Barra
78	Hayloft	VS 4c *	530	41m	• 4	Sennen
79	Dexter	VS 5a **	532	17m		Sennen
80	Diocese	VS 5a ***	914	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
81	Slippery Slab	VS 5a **	223	27m		Sennen
	LOW END HVS
82	Weasle	VS 4c **	70	18m		Carn Barra
83	Ochre Slab Route I	HVS 5a **	845	32m	• 2	Bosigran
84	Shorty's Folly	HVS 4c ***	361	14m		Roche Rock
85	Rosebud in June	HVS 5a **	325	27m		Zennor Cliff
86	Mule	HVS 5a *	59	15m		Pen Olver
	MID GRADE HVS
87	Colomen	HVS 4c *	214	21m		Trewavas
88	Williams' Chimney	HVS 5b **	485	20m		Trewavas
89	Saxon	HVS 5a ***	877	50m		Kenidjack Cliffs
90	The Lord Falmouth	E1 5b **	782	15m		Roche Rock
		1 e, 167 stars	75,099	2,720m	163