Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Start to the right of Cracked Slab below a large tree root ball and a steep hand-crack to its left. This is gained via a path up a vegetated slope directly below.
1) 18m. Go up to and over the ball of roots, utilising the tree, to gain and climb a corner up to an overlap. Move left round these to a large ledge to the left side of the pinnacle.
2) 25m. Climb the crack behind the pinnacle to an exciting step onto the slab. Join and follow Cracked Slab. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daniellmo | 22 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax books refer to this climb as ‘boo-boo left hand’ Loose rock on the left after the second pitch to be aware of :) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax books refer to this climb as ‘boo-boo left hand’ Loose rock on the left after the second pitch to be aware of :) |
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| Dialallama | 28 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately there is a lot of route confusion here. Rockfax has called the slab to the left boo boo so a lot of the logs refer to a slab. If the direction here it is not a diff | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately there is a lot of route confusion here. Rockfax has called the slab to the left boo boo so a lot of the logs refer to a slab. If the direction here it is not a diff |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Cneifion Arete
Grade: D ***
(Cwm Cneifion)