Rockfax Description
A good route up the curving corner/groove. Start below the corner/groove.
1) 4b, 15m. Move up to the top of a small pinnacle on the left and follow the right-trending crack to a niche below a steepening. Move up and left and go up to a small ledge at the base of the main groove. Alternatively head straight up the steep crack to reach the same place.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the groove, passing a bulge on its left. Carry on until you can move right to another ledge, just before the main groove gets too dirty.
3) 5a, 10m. Tackle the leaning crack directly above the stance. This is steep and sustained, and requires a battle to reach the alcove at half-height. Easier climbing up the crack leads to the top. Keep the ropes on for the scrambling to get to the walk-off. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ingle Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Routes for MCI
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)