UKC

Good climbing up pockets on the first pitch but a friable and serious second pitch (rarely done). Scramble up to a ledge L of a short wall split by a crack, R of a corner.
1 25m 6a Move boldly L around the arête and go up to the first line of pockets. Continue in the same line with increasing difficulty until it is possible to move R to a ledge and pinnacle belay.
2 25m 5c From the top of the pinnacle climb the flaky crack until scary moves up and slightly R lead to a ledge.
3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.

M A Boysen, D E Alcock, D Jones (2 pts). FFA Unknown. 1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sam Marks 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Second left a QuickDraw on the peg if anyone’s going that way. Cheers.
βeta?
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βeta: Second left a QuickDraw on the peg if anyone’s going that way. Cheers.
Si Witcher 28 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 1x drilled/glued pegbolt in place, replacing previous hammered peg.
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βeta: 1x drilled/glued pegbolt in place, replacing previous hammered peg.
ian bryant 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the abseil tat today with 10.5mm static rope and a screwgate
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βeta: Replaced the abseil tat today with 10.5mm static rope and a screwgate
George_Surf 4 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The tat needs replacing at the ab station; 3-4m plus a snapgate or two
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βeta: The tat needs replacing at the ab station; 3-4m plus a snapgate or two
tintinandpip 30 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Well worth two stars.
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βeta: Well worth two stars.
Steve Long 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This route is back in "pristine" condition after a cleaning session and peg replacement like for like on the crux (clipping this is still no pushover though). Still plenty of lichen but not where it matters. Second pitch is intimidating, but gear is ok if you look hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is back in "pristine" condition after a cleaning session and peg replacement like for like on the crux (clipping this is still no pushover though). Still plenty of lichen but not where it matters. Second pitch is intimidating, but gear is ok if you look hard.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trunk Line

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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