UKC Logbook - 'Main Wall'

140m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning, previously neglected route that wanders its way through some of the most spectacular terrain, with good gear and holds throughout. Start up The Big Groove.
1) 5b, 60m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Move up this to where The Big Groove goes left. Carry on direct to reach a flake-line leading right to join Sebastopol. Follow this up a stepped flake and move up and right to the Citadel belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Traverse right into Mammoth. Head up this briefly before breaking out across the Wall of Fossils (with feet in the diagonal break) to join the groove of Dinosaur. Romp up the last jugs of this to a large ledge and belay.
3) Escape up Cordon Bleau, or if you have 5c in your arms, then straight up the final pitch of Dinosaur. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
AKA Mona Complex. Originally climbed as Mona Complex in the 1980's. P1 5b: 50m Starting as for Big Groove, follow this first pitch to where it climbs the corner but keep going to across a small ledge to an independent corner system climb with difficulty then continue the rising traverse to the Citadel/hunger belay. P2, 5b 40m Traverse to Mammoth, climb a rising traverse using the obvious break for your feet until you get to Dinosaur, climb this to the belay. P3/4 5b Finish up the last pitches of Corden Bleau or finish up the last pitch of Dinosaur(5c).

A. Stephenson and A. Park . FA as described: Tim Neill and Calum Muskett in 2014 16/Jun/1984.

Ticklists

The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Gogarth life list

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User	Date		Notes
Misha	19 May	Show βeta βeta: As Tim says - if you follow the RF line you end up in a steep and probably greasy left facing corner which goes at E3 5c, if you have a green half nut. You can then step down from the top of the corner and do a fun traverse to rejoin the line on easier ground. Also P1 is only around 40m.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: As Tim says - if you follow the RF line you end up in a steep and probably greasy left facing corner which goes at E3 5c, if you have a green half nut. You can then step down from the top of the corner and do a fun traverse to rejoin the line on easier ground. Also P1 is only around 40m.
Tim Neill	29 Apr	Show βeta βeta: The line drawn on the Rockfax and the first description above for P1 is incorrect. It stays lower on the middle section to join Sebastopol as per the second written description above.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The line drawn on the Rockfax and the first description above for P1 is incorrect. It stays lower on the middle section to join Sebastopol as per the second written description above.