Climbs 241
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 488m a.s.l
Faces all
2023 onwards - Names are appearing at the foot of routes. Routes are being re-bolted, moved, renamed and re-graded. PLEASE GIVE BRIEF DETAILS of any additions and updates you make so I can keep the route list as organised as possible - thanks
This is a very good crag with about 200 routes mostly based on the two sides of a limestone gorge close to the town. Routes are often single pitch 25-30m, but there are many extension second pitches available. The left hand side consistes mostly of high grade 6 'old school' wall climbing on perfect quality grey limestone. The right hand side of the gorge is steeper in places and has more red rock. The routes are again high quality with some grade 7's available.
The left side of the gorge faces west and in April Horta, Melodies, Can volar and Pisuke stay in the shade until around 1:30pm. Centinela de la torre and Arabe loco are under the castle have a more southerly aspect so get lots of sun.
The right hand side of the gorge, Instinto and Los Huajolotes face south east, and in April come into the shade at around 4:00pm.
There are only a few names and grades at the base of the routes making the topos, 'Escalada en Castellon', Roca Espana 'Costa Blanca Nord', Levant Climbs North or information from enlavertical.com pretty much essential, although there are sure to be other climbers around at weekends to help out. There is a new guidebook (2022) Alto Palancia, Castellon. Name plates are appearing at the foot of routes and be aware some routes are being changed, moved, re-bolted, renamed and re-graded.
Take the A23 motorway NW from the coast towards Teruel. Get off at junction 42 Jerica. There is extensive parking down by the river at the start of the gorge. One easy way to get to this is to turn right before the main part of town, immediately after the second speed bump. This takes you past the school to a T junction. Turn left and alongside the park to get to the parking in 300m. The streets of the town are not narrow by Spanish standards and there are several other ways.
From the parking a path leads along the left side 5-10 minutes. To get to the right side cross the small dam at the start of the path, 10 minutes.
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