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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

Rockfax Description
A fine route tucked away over on the right-hand side of the main crag. Start at a long rib right of the descent gully.
1) 12m. Follow the rib until moves left gain a block belay.
2) 12m. Climb up to the slim overhang and traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 10m. Take a crack and wall to the rib on the right and climb it in a nice position to a stance and belay at its top.
4) 18m. From an unstable flake, climb slabs and short walls to easy ground. Walk off to the left (looking out). © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , Lakes ticklist

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User Date Notes
Esme 29 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quite big loose rock on pitches 1 and 4, so check what you pull on.
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βeta: Quite big loose rock on pitches 1 and 4, so check what you pull on.
PatrickBrown 23 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Keep going up on Pitch 4 past a juggy mantle - big ledge that has easy sling anchors and a gentle walk off to the right next to East Raven Crag
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βeta: Keep going up on Pitch 4 past a juggy mantle - big ledge that has easy sling anchors and a gentle walk off to the right next to East Raven Crag
Mark Eddy 3 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice climb. Some lazy sod has added an abseil station at the top of pitch 3 which is a shame as pitch 4 is well worth doing and the walk off via East Raven is straightforward.
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βeta: Really nice climb. Some lazy sod has added an abseil station at the top of pitch 3 which is a shame as pitch 4 is well worth doing and the walk off via East Raven is straightforward.
Jeremy Wilson 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Matthew's first day trad leading. Abbed off excellent sling and maillon before top pitch - 30m just!
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βeta: Matthew's first day trad leading. Abbed off excellent sling and maillon before top pitch - 30m just!
Oliver Johnson2000 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The walk off the route after the final pitch was sketch as f**k. Steep, exposed and loose despite what the guide says to walk off left to the main abseil point. Best bet is to ab off after the 3rd pitch which is the most exciting. The 4th isn’t worth the hassle if you ask me. Good route though. Unique!
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βeta: The walk off the route after the final pitch was sketch as f**k. Steep, exposed and loose despite what the guide says to walk off left to the main abseil point. Best bet is to ab off after the 3rd pitch which is the most exciting. The 4th isn’t worth the hassle if you ask me. Good route though. Unique!
Rob Exile Ward 21 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Description of start of P2 is misleading. The 'obvious' line straight up is hard and positively dangerous for S; climb round to the left then up the block, and there's good protection to see you on your way. Done this way it's a classic S pitch!
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βeta: Description of start of P2 is misleading. The 'obvious' line straight up is hard and positively dangerous for S; climb round to the left then up the block, and there's good protection to see you on your way. Done this way it's a classic S pitch!
LoneDeranger 9 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good route this - interest in first 3 pitches. Climbed in 2 pitches. Abbed off tat on tree to left (looking out) down a mucky gully to escape well-timed rain
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βeta: Good route this - interest in first 3 pitches. Climbed in 2 pitches. Abbed off tat on tree to left (looking out) down a mucky gully to escape well-timed rain
meggies 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take tat and ab off top of p3 - descent a right pain
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βeta: Take tat and ab off top of p3 - descent a right pain
MusicalMountaineer 27 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, again. Spicier than I remember up the Arete on P3, found it easier on lead!
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βeta: Great route, again. Spicier than I remember up the Arete on P3, found it easier on lead!

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Grade: S 3c ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))

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