Climbs 144
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all
First Stackpole Experience...steep! © shoulders
What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke, and then you discover this place! The alluring, hanging grooves of Stackpole are home to some magnificent lines, such as Silver Shadow (E2), Swordfish (E3), the mega-traverse of Plane Sailing (E3), and the amazing arete of Always the Sun (E6), along with countless other quality classics. Yet it attracts fewer visitors than you'd imagine - this has almost certainly been a combination of bird restrictions, a tidal window that gives between 2 and 4 hours of play, and lack of a good crag shot. So we've deleted one issue right here - now go there in August with a tide timetable and keep that promise to yourself!
A word of warning though: away from the main three E2/3 routes, the crag sees little traffic, in fact many may well never have had a second ascent. Treat all the routes with respect and make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for before you commit yourself to the free-hanging abseil!
Approach from Broad Haven beach car park or Stackpole car park in 30 mins.
Abseil in, or for the determined, take the left-hand (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.
To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea! Drexciyan - 30/Sep/13 |
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Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet.
When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then! Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03 |
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