UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 

Rockfax Description
Climb the slab to cracks trending leftwards. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Ellis 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A lot easier than X-Box.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lot easier than X-Box.
JorgeR 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely, 10 stars, super easy, super flowy, but probably like an HS? Bomber protection all the way through.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely, 10 stars, super easy, super flowy, but probably like an HS? Bomber protection all the way through.
PhilipGBailey 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Repeat lovely rock now regraded at VS 4C that's about right in my view
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Repeat lovely rock now regraded at VS 4C that's about right in my view

Logged Ascents

149 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 7 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 30
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gabriel and the Pearly Gates

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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