Rockfax Description
The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts. © Rockfax
Portland Unwishlist , Portland , Portland road to 7a
User | Date | Notes | ||
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catt | 17 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: follow the described line and this has some nice, hard moves. all 4 of us that climbed it reckoned it about 6b. good little route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: follow the described line and this has some nice, hard moves. all 4 of us that climbed it reckoned it about 6b. good little route. |
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Wilbur | 30 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: so contrived and crap as a result. you can step out left and use good left arete holds but is that cheating? felt off-route to me but then you can still reach the bolts from their!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: so contrived and crap as a result. you can step out left and use good left arete holds but is that cheating? felt off-route to me but then you can still reach the bolts from their!!! |
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richardr | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Crux move definately hard off that undercut. Took me a few falls before I figured it out. It is only hard for 2-3 moves though and right next to the bolt. I haven't a lot of sport experience but wouldn't that bring the grade down to F6a? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crux move definately hard off that undercut. Took me a few falls before I figured it out. It is only hard for 2-3 moves though and right next to the bolt. I haven't a lot of sport experience but wouldn't that bring the grade down to F6a? |
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SC | 16 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Very tough for a 5+ but not sure if its quite 6b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very tough for a 5+ but not sure if its quite 6b. |
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Pete | 15 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: This is emphatically not 5+. Over the last five years or so I have done a good proportion of the climbs at Portland graded 6A - 6C and a few harder. I would, like some of the others that have commented, put it at good 6B. In fact I can remember several 6B+ climbs that I have found easier than this. Have to say though that it is a good climb, but someone got this badly wrong. Would say that the adjacent Sod is a bit out too, but not quite as much. Endorsed by the other three people that I climbed with last Sunday as well. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is emphatically not 5+. Over the last five years or so I have done a good proportion of the climbs at Portland graded 6A - 6C and a few harder. I would, like some of the others that have commented, put it at good 6B. In fact I can remember several 6B+ climbs that I have found easier than this. Have to say though that it is a good climb, but someone got this badly wrong. Would say that the adjacent Sod is a bit out too, but not quite as much. Endorsed by the other three people that I climbed with last Sunday as well. |
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Adam Perrett | 16 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: I think that losing a hold has improved the climb as it is now a more dynamic climb past the 3rd bolt. Perhaps worth a single star(?) | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think that losing a hold has improved the climb as it is now a more dynamic climb past the 3rd bolt. Perhaps worth a single star(?) |
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TobyT | 4 Nov, 2002 |
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βeta: Not 5+. Harder technically than other 6a's but short with closely spaced bolts. One move is particularly reachy and the short can add another grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not 5+. Harder technically than other 6a's but short with closely spaced bolts. One move is particularly reachy and the short can add another grade. |
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John2 | 9 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: We felt that this one was more like 6A+ or 6B. To climb it directly required several moves of English 5C. | βeta? | |
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βeta: We felt that this one was more like 6A+ or 6B. To climb it directly required several moves of English 5C. |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)