Introduction

Oceana Mackenzie (AUS) 

Australian Tokyo 2020 Olympian Oceana Mackenzie is a truly international climber whose origins could give several countries bragging rights. Born in Germany to New Zealander parents, who later settled in Melbourne, Australia, the young star from the antipodes showed enormous promise in climbing from an early age.

With Mackenzie shining as she came into youth competition, the decision was made by the Australian climbing federation to move her into the adult events before she was eligible under the rules. This, it was felt, would assist in raising her level by exposing her to a broader field of elite competitors. It was a decision which clearly paid dividends, with Mackenzie coming into her own in domestic competition before she was technically allowed to hold the titles she was winning. Strong performances in her first international outings also showed that this unusual approach had benefited her evolution as a climber.

After impressive showings in her first season of IFSC senior competition with a semi-final appearance in her first World Cup in Hachioji, Japan in 2018, Mackenzie really announced her arrival onto the world stage with a final’s appearance at the first Boulder World Cup of 2019 in Meiringen, Switzerland.

Since her 19th place finish in Tokyo 2020, Mackenzie experienced a less successful 2022 season before upping the ante in 2023. In Lead World Cups, she became a consistent semi-finalist and achieved a career (and continental) best in Lead of 10th place in Briançon. In Boulder - her stronger discipline - she achieved another personal best of 5th place by making finals in Brixen. 

Qualification route

IFSC Oceania Continental Qualifier: 1st Place

Although Mackenzie was a favourite to win the continental qualifier in Melbourne and seemed almost guaranteed to qualify via this route, she arguably stood a strong chance of qualifying through the Olympic Qualifier Series, too.

Trivia

Mackenzie is the youngest of six siblings, all sisters. She follows a vegan lifestyle.

UKC prediction

If Mackenzie's 2023 season is anything to go by, an improvement on her 19th place in Tokyo should be very much achievable. A top-15 finish should be well within her capabilities.