Restricted Access
The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 May to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible.
Rockfax Description
The right-hand crack is straightforward and solid, apart from the exit. It gets a star for being the best HS in the quarry, either that or the route name - you choose. © Rockfax
FA. Johnny Woodward, Andrew Woodward 1976.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TurnipPrincess | 18 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Good first HS. - Well protected | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good first HS. - Well protected |
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| Al Evans | 6 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Sorry that should have said 1976, thats what it says in the guide, I wonder where on earth they got that info from, a bad guess I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry that should have said 1976, thats what it says in the guide, I wonder where on earth they got that info from, a bad guess I think. |
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| Al Evans | 6 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Andrew, Its called that to take the piss (in a friedly way) out of Johnny who did those two easy routes and went on to put up Beau Geste, one of the best and hardest routes on grit at the time. Hence Beau Jest. It is erroneously credited to Johhny in Northern Limestonre, not so, its my route, it never even appeared in the '87 guide so how can they have done it in 1986. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Andrew, Its called that to take the piss (in a friedly way) out of Johnny who did those two easy routes and went on to put up Beau Geste, one of the best and hardest routes on grit at the time. Hence Beau Jest. It is erroneously credited to Johhny in Northern Limestonre, not so, its my route, it never even appeared in the '87 guide so how can they have done it in 1986. |
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| ABark | 8 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Why is the short right arete called Beau Jest (HVS 5a) not on the site? It's in the book and deserves 1 star for being a good if escapable route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Why is the short right arete called Beau Jest (HVS 5a) not on the site? It's in the book and deserves 1 star for being a good if escapable route. |
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| ABark | 8 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Fun moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun moves. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Staden Quarry
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Upper Tor Wall
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)