UKC

There’s loads of beta and photographs showing the alleged crux of Wrong Hand Route (E1 5c) but very little about how to get off the ground!  
 

Now I know it’s early in the season, given the weather, and Bamford can be a bit scrittly and lichenous but seriously, I tried pretty hard on the three possible starts I could see and the only way I could get past the first couple of metres was by traversing in along the break from the left.

Not just me, but a couple of mates who could also generally dispatch an E1 or boulder out a 5c/6a start without too much drama similarly failed to progress.  All just too slopey, slippery, reachy, mantelshelfy and/or crimpy for us.  And that isn’t even the hard bit, apparently…

I can't remember any particularly exceptional issues with the start and there is no indication of such on the logbooks either. Has something broken? Did you start up the rib (definitive says 5c/6a direct up wall left of the rib and reach dependent)??

I recall starting as per that description, with not too much difficulty. Maybe a bit reachy but my memory is hazy. Moving onwards from the pocket was certainly the main difficulty.

The rib on the right did seem the least implausible option and I did manage to get both feet off the ground using the ok-ish knob to reach the useless little hole on the left (looks ok for a mono undercling) or an inadequate little rounded crimp above.  In neither case could I let go with my right hand or get a foot on the ‘obvious’ foothold.

Still, the consensus seems to be that were all crap, so let’s have another go later in the summer…

I had the same experience. Never even got to the wrong hand bit as I couldn't climb that starting rib.

My vague memory is  you start with a right hand on the rhs of the rib/arete and quickly get a high left foot on the long slopey ledge and then use the flakey side-pulls and undercuts to rock up/over to reach the crack proper and the first runner. It's a tricky move and might feel a bit high without a runner for some people?