UKC

Beginner scramble crags...

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 Rhys92 15 Mar 2021

Hi everyone, first post!

Over lockdown I’ve used the time to learn ropework for grade 2/3 scrambles. I was just wondering if anybody knew any really easy almost like grade 1 terrain single pitch or 2 pitch scrambles, just so I can practise belay set ups, placing anchors with no pressure really. I’m based around the Cwlydians or anywhere in snowdonia as I do travel there most weekends. Thanks everyone,

 chris_r 15 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

As you live in the area I'd recommended investing in this book:

https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/snowdonia-mountain-walks-and-scra...

Great book with inspiring photos. Just a pity travel into Wales has been banned since its release! 

In reply to Rhys92:

The Rhinogydd are full of little craglets you can scramble around on. The south face of Clip and the south face of rhinog fawr might be good for what you want since they both consist of a stepped series of single pitch crags.

 NorthernGrit 16 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

Scrambles and easy climbs in Snowdonia by Jon Sparks is a great book.

 C Witter 16 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

There are quite a lot of small lumps of rock around Ogwen that would work. Maybe  Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf above the Gwern Gof Isaf campsite would give you what you're looking for. There are also some slabs near Ogwen Cottage. You don't need to practice on an established scramble - just some convenient lumps of rock You may find similar things closer to home.

The North Ridge of Tryfan, followed by Bristly Ridge and Y Garn is a classic grade 1 outing, but not actually a great place to be regularly deploying a rope nor practising as it's long and usually very busy. It's good for route finding and building movement confidence though! 

OP Rhys92 16 Mar 2021
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Thanks for reply bud, I’ll give it a look after lockdown but can’t find much info online other then it seems like a grade 3 scramble? Or is there a lot of variations? Thanks! 

OP Rhys92 16 Mar 2021
In reply to C Witter:

Thanks for reply, I’m pretty sure an instructor took us up to the crags near the campsite last year so might go back

In reply to Rhys92:

Just go and make your own adventure... like I said its a series of terraces so there isn't any commitment. If it feels too hard climb down and walk round. The region from Rhinog Fach north to Foel Penolau is a big wild area full of tiny crags made of probably the best rock in the whole of Wales.

 static266 16 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

Plenty of stuff out there but most of the guidebook routes will be big long scrambles in the mountains they might not suit your requirement for practising. 
 

Moel Berfedd is a couple of minutes walk from Pen-y-Pass and has a few tiers of grade 1 or so. 
 

The south faces of Clip and Rhinog Fawr as mentioned are good for this also but a longer walk. 
 

The pinnacle crag in Capel Curig is a short walk from the Joe Brown shop and can be between grade 1 and 3 with good gear and belays. 
 

I’d also recommend Idwal Buttress (without the continuation) as it is easy for the grade and escapable, closer to a proper mountain scramble than the others I’ve mentioned. 

1
 kaiser 16 Mar 2021
In reply to static266:

> I’d also recommend Idwal Buttress (without the continuation) as it is easy for the grade and escapable, closer to a proper mountain scramble than the others I’ve mentioned. 

I don't think that's really escapable is it?  Not until you've climbed the first half anyway... 

Not really 'single pitch or 2 pitch' either...  So probably not what the OP is after

Post edited at 19:59
 static266 16 Mar 2021
In reply to kaiser:

You can easily scramble off to the right at quite at quite a few points and it’s what about 100m so maybe 3 pitches - apologies. 
 

I thought my post actually had more input than any other and certainly more than you’ve given. 

1
 C Witter 16 Mar 2021
In reply to static266:

I don't remember it as particularly escapable either. But, I do remember it as being very good - with the continuation, which is no harder and easier to vary. Underrated! I've never fancied the Staircase because it looks so dark and greasy, whilst the slab/buttress is clean and airy. Might be good for rope practice after gaining a bit more confidence!

Always worth taking others' advice with a pinch of salt. My first time scrambling in North Wales, I was planning a relaxed day on my own doing the  Cwm Bochlwyd horseshoe, but a friend told me: "no, no... You want to start up The  Wrinkled Tower, you'll be bored otherwise." Well, it wasn't boring, that's for sure.

Post edited at 23:18
 kaiser 17 Mar 2021
In reply to static266:

> You can easily scramble off to the right at quite at quite a few points and it’s what about 100m so maybe 3 pitches - apologies. 

That's not correct.  The only escape rightwards is at the top of that first 100m section when you can then get down a gully to the devils kitchen path.

This link shows the buttress (section 3) and you can see where the first possible escape is  at the top of the first section- marked as 'descent'. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/snowdonia_in_chains-435

I appreciate you're trying to help the OP but incorrect info re these type of scrambles is what leads to so many accidents in this area

Post edited at 08:30
 RuthW 17 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

I have often seen people practicing rope work on the main gully scramble on glyder fach. It is grade 1 (ish) and a bit quieter than some others so this is probably why. 

OP Rhys92 17 Mar 2021

Thanks everyone, yeah it’s just a few small easy crags to get used to placing gear etc that I’m after.

 I will probably ask on this forum for somebody with more experience to take us out one day maybe on some classic multi pitch stuff, before I attempt any myself. I don’t know many other people in the mountaineering world it’s just me and my partner really and it can get expensive paying for instructors every time! 

Thanks again for your help.

 Mark Haward 30 Mar 2021
In reply to Rhys92:

Lion Rock above Llyn Padarn may suit. Easy access set of small tiers with easy rock climbing and scrambling. Lots of places to practice gear / sling placements. The third / upper tier is more climbing than scrambling so choose your lines with care.


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