In reply to Mark Stevenson:
While Nigel Sheppard's book may be dated, a beginner could do far, far worse. ..........lets face it it used to be essentially 'the' rope-work manual for aspirant guides, and has been borrowed from in some form for nearly every manual since (and often not improved upon).
Clear photographs, and logical explanations a beginner will come away understanding building and equalizing belays (using ropes, slings and cords), be able to recover from dropping their belay plate, will be able to lock-off a belay plate, understand a variety of prussiks knots and a bit about escaping the system, and even multiple evacuations. A solid foundation to build on......
OK it doesn't cover modern kit developments; guide plates, reverso's, micro ascenders etc, and yes the bits about figure of 8's, karabiner stacks, piton bar brakes, alpine clutches, semi-classic abseils have all passed (mostly) into history.
I agree a replacement of similar clarity incorporating modern gear and techniques is well over due.