UKC

Ratho Quarry, progression climbing

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 DizzyVizion 18 Jun 2020

Due to the grades there, Ratho Quarry obviously isn't an ideal place for beginners. But it's a nice place and is easy for me to get to. I've climbed Peashooter there three times now and I consider it quite an easy climb (especially because I now know how to lower off properly... less said about that the better). Moving swiftly on, it's down on UKC as a grade 5a but a really soft 5a maybe? Anyways, my real question is this- what is the second easiest climb there and is it too much of a step up from Peashooter? Any advice would be brilliant. Thank you.

On a side note, my copy of 7a Max Scottish Sport climbing guide arrived today and it really is a brilliant book https://www.7amax.co.uk/  (thanks to henwardian for the recommendation)

 JLS 18 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

Get/make a clip-stick so you can dog up Slow Strain 6b and set-up a top rope.

There are a couple of easier climbs (6a+) up right on the ledge but if it’s by necessity going to be a bit of a project then it’s more pleasant to be starting of flat ground with easy access. 

Post edited at 22:24
OP DizzyVizion 18 Jun 2020
In reply to JLS:

I'll take a look at clip-sticks and Slow Strain. Thanks JLS 👍🙂

 JLS 18 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

BMC clip-sticking video...
youtube.com/watch?v=-LyTV9RmzpE&

OP DizzyVizion 18 Jun 2020
In reply to JLS:

Have looked into your suggestion in more detail JLS, it is brilliant! We're absolutely inspired by it. Big thank you for that 😀👍

 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 19 Jun 2020
In reply to DizzyVizion:

You could also have a look at craigpark quarry - it's accessed from the road to ratho. parking in the layby just before the bridge over the canal to get to the centre car park. 

The routes are in the 7amax guide on p225 - a couple of 6as which you can just walk up to. 

OP DizzyVizion 19 Jun 2020
In reply to JamieSparkes:

Thanks Jamie. I'll try go for a look this weekend. I haven't been before but I've seen pictures online. Thanks for your work on these routes! 👌🙂


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