UKC

Slings to big for blouder anchor?

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 Jackscottadair 20 Feb 2019

Heya guys

Using a 2nd hand rack basically it has 2 slings both aboustly massive. Like 200 cm. Easily fit around double bed. 

For everyone familiar with dewerstone you probably know the building a belay is pretty good there as there are massive blouders on top of the climb.

Basically as big and the secure the blouders are my slings and still to big for them and asking what your advice would be on building a belay on the blouder using the slings.

My assumption would be to to tie a figure of 8 so that slings angle it's 60 degrees, however not use the figure of 8 to put a carabiner on but the sling itself, if that makes sense.

There would be alot of excess of the figure of 8 knot, however I don't see how this wouldnt be a probably and also I would expect this knot to come undone 

Still learning, rather ask something stupid than do doing stupid 

Post edited at 16:34
 Cheese Monkey 20 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

Yeh but use an overhand

 FreshSlate 20 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

An overhand is less likely to roll as far, whilst the figure 8 will be easier to untie after load. 

 jkarran 20 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

Don't bother knotting if you can get away with it, knots can get set in pretty hard when loaded. If you need to shorten a sling an overhand works. In dyneema these might theoretically slip under extreme load but for most rigging it's never worried me. Alternatively consider doubling the sling up if the spike/boulder is small enough. Also with some anchors (tree stumps for example) you can take a turn of sling around the anchor or form a clove hitch on it with the sling (x-over bit of the hitch on the side of the anchor away from the load direction).

jk

 deacondeacon 20 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

Walk around the boulder and clove hitch back to a carabiner on your belay loop. 

 NigelHurst 20 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

double the sling ?

 andrewmc 21 Feb 2019
In reply to FreshSlate:

Alpine butterfly!

Easier to untie (I find).

 Rog Wilko 21 Feb 2019
In reply to Jackscottadair:

I'm a bit slow sometimes, so I spent quite a long time looking at the thread title and wondering what a blouder anchor might be. ;O)

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 Pekkie 21 Feb 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> I'm a bit slow sometimes, so I spent quite a long time looking at the thread title and wondering what a blouder anchor might be. ;O)

It can't be a typo cos he uses it two more times in the text. Could a blouder be a rude noise from the rear end? Maybe when you're bending down to set up the belay?

1
 McHeath 21 Feb 2019
In reply to Rog Wilko:

>  I spent quite a long time looking at the thread title and wondering what a blouder anchor might be. ;O)

It's what you use if there aren't any steaks at the top.


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