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Where to start in Alpinism

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 Soulchaser01 02 Mar 2019

So, huge topic, but that's the point: I have no idea where to start!

I'm a climber, mostly sport, some trad, never winter climbed but have done glacier based research and can ski. I've always wanted to become a proper alpine mountaineer and now I have the chance i want to make the most of it. 

I'm moving to France. I'm location independent and can spend a lot of my time in the mountains, training, whatever. But I'm by no means rich. In fact, quite the opposite. I'm 35. 

So, if you were in my shoes and you could spend the next 5 years playing in the mountains (or you could do it all again) where would you start? What would you do first? How would you progress? How would you meet people? Where would you be based, and would that change as you develop skills? 

I feel like I could answer these questions if a Frenchman wanted to move to Scotland to develop as a Scottish mountaineer. I could signpost, suggest locations and clubs and forums etc. I have no idea where to start the other way around!

At the moment I feel like I'm going to end up going to Chamonix, wasting loads of money and getting intimidated and just retreating to French sport climbing. 

So, tell me your dreams so I might live them! Haha!

 GridNorth 02 Mar 2019
In reply to Soulchaser01:

I would base myself somewhere around Briancon.  Chamonix is not too far away and there is Provence just to the South.  Around Briancon there is both sport and alpine as well as Via Ferrata, canoeing,  and skiing.  It's also  reputed to be the driest area in France.  Chamonix is expensive, very expensive.  If I could have persuaded my wife I would be living near Briancon now.

Al

 Doug 02 Mar 2019
In reply to Soulchaser01:

Although I'd already been climbing & skiing for years, when I first moved to France I joined the local branch of the French Alpine Club & quickly found partners. The CAF also run a lot of courses and seem quite welcoming to beginners.  Being in a French speaking environment will also help your French.

In reply to GridNorth:

> Around Briancon there is both sport and alpine as well as Via Ferrata, canoeing,  and skiing

It's got a good hospital, too...

 PaulW 02 Mar 2019
In reply to Doug:

Agree with this, alpinism is much more mainstream in France than it is in the UK. Join a local club, learn French and meet people.

Grenoble area is pretty good, easy access to a range of stuff

OP Soulchaser01 02 Mar 2019
In reply to Doug:

Thanks, that's good advice

 Roberttaylor 18 Mar 2019
In reply to GridNorth:

Second for this.

The ecrins are way drier than cham, more stable weather in general. Cheaper, nicer atmosphere. It's where I'd go for sure.

 Smythson 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Soulchaser01:

As you say, it is a large field but if you want to do some learning from the comfort of your sofa then you could do a lot worse than Alpine Mountaineering by Bruce Goodlad. This is of course no replacement for any of the above.

I'm currently spending my summers working through the 4000ers which I enjoy and is getting me more used to general alpinism each time. 

And do lots of running - just as no one's ever finished a route wishing they'd had a heavier pack no one's ever wished they were less fit!

​​​​​​Good luck on the move,

​​​​​​S


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