UKC

List your rack

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 Flatlander 02 Sep 2009
On the vain of perfect rack, list your rack and compare. And no don't post a link to ratemyrack.com

Me:
set 0.5,1.5,2.5 DMM cams
2 slider nuts
Set 1-9 BD nuts
Set 3-10 rock empire nuts
Size 6,7,8 hexs
6 locking Karbs various companies
4 BD quickdraws wireagte
3 homemade quickdraws on slings
2 petzal quickdraws
240mm sling
2 120mm slings
Belay device DMM bug
50m rope from Beal




In reply to Flatlander: It would depend on the route I am doing
 Morgan Woods 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

14 Petzl draws, 70m rope and gri-gri.....for my current sport climbing phase.

as for my trad rack....too much to bother writing down.
 jesatu 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

Glad to see some other people out there use Rock Empire gear, not just me! They've got some really nice stuff, be they rip-offs of other designs or not
 Quiddity 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:

I love how the minimalism of sport climbing gear just feels so unfashionably 80's right now

me also for a set of petzl spirit express draws, a long skinny single rope, a belay device and a clipstick. And I'm done.
In reply to Flatlander:

for long trad routes

2 full sets of dmm wallnuts, 4 snap gates to rack them (soon to be coloures phantoms)

wild country hexes 7, 8, and 9 (plus a black diamond hex 11 for novelty)each on idividual snap gate

6 helium quick draws

6 extenders (60cm sling tripled with revolver snap gate for the rope end and a helium snap gate at the other)

2x 240cm slings with 2 screwgates on each

hms and reverso

120cm sling and screwgate

2 prussiks on screw gate

2 extra screwgates

9 cams of various sizes soon to be changed in to 2 omega pacific cams and 2 super cams.

dmm nutter

black diamond alpine bod and dmm daisey chain

 fimm 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

Err...

Some nuts (well they are rocks 1 - 10, plus an extra 5 that I seem to have aquired somewhere)
Some slings
Some screwgate krabs
nut key
belay device and krab
prussiks

1 60 metre rope
Half share in a 30 metre wall rope

Thats it. It is half a rack really. Sometime I need to work out what else I need/want, and part with some more cash!
 beardy mike 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Mountain_addict_uk: As I said on your other thread:

1 set of DMM Wallnuts
1 set of DMM offsets
sizes 11-13 wc rocks
1 set of BD Swedges
1 set of Metolius Astronuts sizes 6-10
Camalots 0.5-3
~1 and 2 metolius TCU
In winter then tricams up even sizes to size 4 rather than cams. Maybe a large hex too.
10 BD OZ Extenders, with 4 of the tapes replaced with 60cm slings
4 180cm slings with lightweight snapgates
2 DMM Locking shadows
2 DMM larger lightweight lockers

Harness BD Chaos or BD Alpine Bod depending on season and lightness required.
Either a mammut serenity single or a mammut Phoenix double
BD ATC Guide and DMM new Boa
All in an Osprey Exposure 36 sack. If it doesn't fit in it get left behind. In winter this means taking less rack becasue of clothes and food - you put in lkess gear anyway so it works...
 surfbish 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:
Quick draws made up of Beal 60cm, 6mm slings rethreaded to be able to extend if need be with a Phantom crab one end and the DMM revolver on the rope end. Say goodbye to rope drag.
 mattrm 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

In reply to Flatlander:

1-11 Wallnuts
1-4 Torque Nuts on three coloured phantoms
2 x 60cm 11mm dyneema slings
2 x phantom screwgates
2 x prussik loops (5mm cord, 1.5M long, probably need a slight trim)
Bug Belay Plate
DMM HMS with Belay Master

I plan on adding:

5 x DMM Shield quickdraws (mix of lengths) - should be enough as I plan on having all the torque nuts on phantoms, so no need to quickdraw them
2 x 120cm 11mm dyneema slings
1 x WC 400mm cordlette
1 x 50m Mammut 10mm rope (the cheap one from needlesports, mainly for walls, sport and easy trad, I'll get double ropes once I'm climbing harder)
Maybe a few more screwgates, at 41g per krab, I don't mind carrying 4!

Bagwise I'm tempted by a Crux AK47, POD Black Ice or an Aiguille Alpine Zepher/Zenith.

I like surfbish's idea about the revolvers. I've been tempted by them as well. Not entirely sure of the usage, but I'll get some sooner or later I'm sure. I'll probably get either 4CUs or DMM Dragons when I get round to getting cams. Then after that it's micronuts/IMPs and double up on some nuts as well as some more QDs. Its a light rack and I like the extra little bit of (probably imagined) safety that the no snag noses on the QDs will bring. Pity the summer is over now and I'm probably not going to get to use it all much. Also as you can see I'm a bit of a DMM fanboy.

I'd post on the 'perfect rack thread' but it'd be the same rack!
seaofdreams 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

lol: from memory

2 sets of DMM cams from 0 - 4
1 set of WC tech friends from 0 - 4
1 set of WC zero cams
1 ea BD C4's 2" - 5"
1 set aliens (currently with Canadian friend)
1 set hybrids (currently with Canadian friend)
few lowe ball nutz
3 sets of wires from 1 - 11
2 sets of micros
2 sets of offset wires
3 tri cams
2 sets of hexs (lord know why!)
40 small screwgates
10 HMS
40 quick draws
40 spare biners
5 screamers
10 shoulder length slings
4 240's
5 oval lockers
protraction
2 double swing pulleys (i am a weakling)
2 single pulleys (one with Canadian friend)
4 BD et's
3 adjustable daisies
2 classic daisies
1 BD haul bag
1 Double Bomb shelter (portaledge)
3 full ropes (60 m, 55 m and 42 m woopps all 10 mm
2 8mm lead lines
1 8mm tag line
about 4 dead lines for access and fixing
unknown length of static (long enough for something never used and also still in Canada)
1 pair BD vipers
1 pair BD fusions
1 pair grivel airtechs
1 pair oldschool BD sabertooths
1 pair DMM terminators
10 ice screws (various)
25 pegs (various)
40 ish copperheads
4 beaks
2 RURPs
1 "ice hook"
1 dead man
1 toucan
1 set cam hooks
2 talons
2 grappling hooks
2 cliff hangers
1 pointed sky hook
20 rivet hangers
1 hammer
1 helmet



seaofdreams 02 Sep 2009
In reply to seaofdreams:

i forgot:

6 prussick loops
left and right jumer
croll
gri gri
3 various belay plates
1 WC harness
 Sean_J 02 Sep 2009
In reply to seaofdreams: only one harness? Punter
seaofdreams 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Sean_J:

budgeting you know
 Reaver2k 02 Sep 2009
In reply to seaofdreams:

What could you POSSIBLY do with 50 screwgates?! Are you just trying to keep the economy up and running?
 Andy Farnell 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to endless winter)
>
> 14 Petzl draws, 70m rope and gri-gri.....for my current sport climbing phase.
>

18 draws, a 60m and a Gri- Gri.

> as for my trad rack....too much to bother writing down.

Not enough to bother writing down...

Andy

seaofdreams 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Reaver2k:

That inc's old/weird ones plus ones used for projects and fixing. I don't think I have ever used them all and a lot have been bought when i was learning about wall climbing and thought I needed more gear, this is a common mistake and cost me a wall.

in Yosemite the break down is this (stumble to the base and wander off the top)

Those on the leader

2 for the et' system
1 for the end of the tag line
1 for the SLR
1 for the water
1 for the evac'/that was a long fall get me out a here
1 for your grigri
1 for the hammer
1 (oval) protraction
2 (oval) haul system
8 for the anchor you are going to build
1 docking biner for the bag

Those on the belay

8 on the anchor you have left
1 for your mates gri gri
2 for you mates jug system
1 on you mates evac kit
1 for his water
1 for his camera
1 for the end of the haul line

Those on the gear

2 for the portaledge
2 for the haul bag
1 for the poop tube
maybe a few spare if you can bring yourself to carry them.

so almost 40 sometimes but TBH it is rarely that many, in the alps maybe 4 between us





 SeanT 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:
Full set metolius curve nuts (they suck, but they were on offer with a free nut key)
4 Misc nuts from 2-5
Full set Camalots (the bigger ones live in the wardrobe most of the time)
Full set WC Hexcentrics
Full set DMM micro wires
1x 4m WC cordelette
1x 240 cm sling
2x 120 cm slings
2x 60 cm slings rigged as extenders
6x DMM spectre wiregates
5x WC helium wiregates
12x BD neutrino wiregates (10 colour coded to cams, 2 spare)
3x DMM zodiac locking krabs
2x DMM phantom screwgates
1x DMM big boa screwgate
1x Petzl Attache screwgate
4x DMM spectre 15mm quickdraws
4x DMM spectre 30mm quickdraws
1x Petzl reverso
1x WC Variable controller
A couple of prussiks for single and half ropes.
Petzl Corax harness

Needless to say, the rack is trimmed depending on the climb, but I find I have run out of wires on a few long pitches when doing multipitch, so looking to add peenuts, another set of nuts, offsets and maybe some of these new DMM small bits of gear. A few smaller cams (C3s or zeros), or sliding wedges would also be a useful addition, as well as 1-2 omega pacific link cams.
Eyes bigger than my wallet, unfortunately!
 jkarran 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

00-10 WC Rocks + a few foundlings
Full set HB offsets
0-3 RP
~14 draws, mostly 60cm 8-12mm, Prowire and miscellaneous other krabs
Black and Blue Alien
0.5, 0.75 and 1.25 3CU
Purple (maybe lost), Red, Yellow, Blue Camalot
Size 2 and 5 WC tech' Friend
Pegs various
Slings, krabs etc various
Grappling and BAT hook
Pink and Red Tricams
Rockcentrics in tape, full set
Other bits and bobs

jk
 JezH 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

1 set zero-g nuts
1 set black diamond nuts
5 hexes
8 Dmm 4cu's (though I rarely take more than 4 or 5 up a route)
10 Dmm truclip quickdraws (usually take 7)
1 extendable 60cm quickdraw
120cm sling
3 screwgates
3 hms screwgates
Dmm Bug
Nut key

I'm quite happy with that lot =D
 ChrisHolloway1 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

DMM 4CU Cams 1,1.5,2,2.5,3,3.5, and 4
DMM Wallnuts 1-11
Zero G Spectrum wires 1-11 Plus doubles of 4,5,6
Black Diamond Hexcentrics 4-10
14 x Wild Country oxygen quickdraws
10 x Zero G Neutron Screwgates
4 x DMM Fatboys
3 x DMM Truscrews
7 x colours DMM Spectres
4 x DMM Prowire
2 x DMM Boa
1 x Mammut Boa
1 x Zero G HMS
Petzl Reverso
Petzl Reverso 3
Black Diamond ATC
DMM Cardiac Arrester
DMM Figure 8
4 x DMM 120cm Dyneema Slings
2 x DMM 240cm Dyneema Slings
2 x Beal 120cm Nylon Slings
1 x Beal 240cm Dyneema Sling
1 x Wild country cordelette 400cm
1 x Screwdraw (for abseiling)
2 x Prussiks

2 x Beal Iceline goldendry 60m 8.1mm
1 x Edelrid Python 50m 10mm
1 x Beal Via Ferrata 29.5m 9.2mm

2 x DMM Fly
Grivel G12 Newmatic binding
4 x DMM revolution ice screws
Grivel Salamander helmet

Black Diamond Blizzard Harness with 2 x Ice clippers
 Peakpdr 02 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

set of cams from size 1-5 including half sizes
wild country wires ( full set )
full set of HB brass nuts
set of micro wires
6 x screwgates
6 x slings var lengths
8 x quickdraws var lengths
2 x omega cams
4 x hex's
atx xp
Basic ascender
wild country ziplock harness
DMM Bouldering mat
wild country harness
loads of rock boots
 Peakpdr 02 Sep 2009
In reply to pauldr:
oh a 50 mtr single rope
50 mtr half rope
 DWilliamson 03 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

1 x Alpkit chalk bag with chalk
1 x La Sportiva Katana (left)
1 x La Sportiva Katana (right)
1 x Black Diamond Impact bouldering pad


There's a whole load of scrap metal and long, thick bits of string hanging around my cupboard too, but I try to ignore that as much as possible.
 paddywalsh11 05 Sep 2009
In reply to Flatlander:
Just a Basic Starting out Rack.

WC Classic wires 1-10
WC Rockcentrics 3-9
5 HMS Screwgates various makes
2 60cm Slings
1 120cm Sling
50m Mammut Rope
DMM Bug Belay
2 Prussiks
DMM Nutter
13(Dont know why 13) DMM Quickdraws various lengths
Homemade gear sling

Tasty?

HEY JEZ! Wats cracking?

 paddywalsh11 05 Sep 2009
In reply to paddywalsh11:

It's funny to see what people consider a part of their rack, i've never seen anyone with a pair of rock boots hanging off their harness/gear sling.

Interesting.
 sutty 05 Sep 2009
In reply to paddywalsh11:

You are young, it was a regular thing to do when gear was sparser and you did not carry a sack on some trips.
In reply to Flatlander: Rock boots
chalk bag
sometimes a crash mat
lunch for the dog
andyandy1 04 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

WC Rocks 1 - 6, on bent gate WC Oxgen biner
WC Rocks 7 - 10, on bent gate WC Oxygen biner
(spare set of the above for long routes)

WC Hexcentrics 6 and 7, both on WC Wild Wire biners

WC Tech Friends 0, 0.5, 1, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, all on WC Wild Wire biners
(not all carried on every route)

WC Wild Wire 10cm quickdraws x 5
WC Wild Wire 60cm slingdraws x 5
(not all carried on single pitch routes, but all carried on multi pitch)

WC 120cm sling with WC Blaze bent gate biner
(for spike runners)

WC 240cm sling
(for belay equalization and slinging boulders and trees)

WC Oxygen screwgates x 2
(for belay anchors)

WC HMS screwgates x 2
(1 to attach to belay, 1 for the belay device)

Petzl Reverso belay device
(what!...not Wild Country!!; I did replace the Reverso with a VC Pro II but the wire cable detached itself from the plate the first time I used it, so Im sticking with the Reverso)
 Phil Lyon 04 Oct 2009
bloody hell, this is a tedious thread.

Or have I missed something. No offence to OP, I guess it could have been fascinating to see what little bits and bobs people prefer or use differently, but it turns out it's just some long lists that look like a Petzl catalogue index.
 climbfan 12 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander: I've beeb building my rack slowly, buying mostly from Joe Brown's and www.theoutdoorshop.com and even one or two "seconds."
Some things I've bought I now think I wish I'd read a bit more first, listened to others and read stuff like on the UKC forums.
I have:
Zero-G Spectrum Wires Sizes 1- 11 (+ extra 6) - a bit funny, their size 11 is the same size as my rock 9, and so on down. Yet to place them, prefer the rocks.
Sizes 1 - 10 + 12 Wild Country Rocks
Size 11 DMM Wallnut
Screwgates: 1 x Clog, 1 x HB , 3 x DMM Eclipse and 1 x DMM Boa HMS
15 Karabiners: mostly for racking
Quickdraws: 10 x DMM Mamba, 10cm slings - I use for sport routes
5 x DMM Prowire (2 x 25cm, 3 x 18cm) - going to get some more
Hexcentrics: Sizes 4 – 11, Black Diamond on wires - fancy the new torque nuts
DMM 3CU: size 1.75
DMM 4CU: sizes 0, 1, 2, 3 - going to get the half sizes too. I really like cams.
Wild Country Technical Friend 3.5
ATC-XP and Elderid belay devices
2 x 60cm slings on krabs to make extendable 'draws
Slings: 2 x 120cm and 1 x 240cm on individual screwgates
Wild Country Nut Tool with leash
2 x 60cm Prussik loops on individual screwgates
60m rope

In reply to Flatlander:

Adequate

ALC
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 d_b 13 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander: Let me see

1 set of dmm wallnuts (1-11)
1 set bd stoppers
1 set dmm alloy offsets
1 set micros (The BD ones I think)
2 tricam 0.5
1 tricam 1
1 tricam 1.5
1 tricam 2
1 tricam 2.5
1 tricam 3.5
2 hexes
1 size 0.5 friend
1 size 1 friend
1 size 3 friend
1 size 1.5 dmm 4cu
1 size 2 dmm 4cu
1 size 2 "rock empire" cam.
9 extenders
far too many slings (2 v long ones, 4 or 5 medium)
4 or 5 spare screwgates
prusiks
2 60m 8.5mm ropes
A winter rack in the attic
some other stuff I have forgotten about.

I don't carry it all at once. I think I might need to shed some gear.
 d_b 13 Oct 2009
In reply to davidbeynon: Oh yeah

I forgot about the 9 & 10 hexes and the pegs & hammer for stanage.
king_of_gibraltar 13 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander:

ALL of the above
 The Ivanator 13 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander:
It's my wife's rack that is really the impressive one
 Steve Hill 13 Oct 2009
In reply to mattrm:

> I like surfbish's idea about the revolvers. I've been tempted by them as well. Not entirely sure of the usage, but I'll get some sooner or later I'm sure.

Not much point for most routes on a pair of halfropes. They start to get useful on routes with big traverses, or when your gear is marginal (friction on the gear effectively increases your fall-factor, so using a revolver will load the gear less).

> I'll probably get either 4CUs or DMM Dragons when I get round to getting cams.

I'm actually a bit disappointed to see that the Dragons have a single-stem design. I quite like the dual-stem design of the 3CU and 4CU, so I was hoping they'd come out with a 2 axle Friend very similar to their existing single axle ones.

> Pity the summer is over now and I'm probably not going to get to use it all much.

That's what mixed winter climbing is for
 jayme 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Flatlander:
I have a couple of scregate Krabs and a 120mm sling
everything else is brought by my much wealthier climbing buddy

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