UKC

madrock mugen - anyone used em?

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bonster 05 Feb 2007
I can get a pair in my size for £30 - I kind of need a new pair but was going to wait however they seem ok. I was just wondering if anyone has a pair and if they have any feedback on them that the wouldnt mind sharing?

Cheers
 tommyzero 05 Feb 2007
In reply to bonster:

http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=806

I have these. The new ones. I got them in Hong Kong for around £20 - £25. So far they are brilliant. These are my third pair of shoes and I've not had them long but they totally impressed me. They are really sticky. They are flexible in the middle, which is interesting. The tread on the back for heel hooks is pretty good and the underside of the toe area is re-inforced. They have nice sharp edges and a good point. They feel pretty solid. I have only heard good things about the old ones too.

I've worn them for two months and they haven't stretched much at all. They are much better than the Boreal Jokers and the Quechua shoes I previously had.

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bonster 05 Feb 2007
In reply to tommyzero:

Cheers Tommy - Ive got them here now to look at as my mate ordered them online and there too small (Haha school boy error), and to be honest I like the look of em. Quit a crazy design so I was wondering if it was a gimik or not.

Yeah - Ive not used a flexible sole before so it will be a bit wird I guess to bigin with but I think Ill get em as I like the feel of them when there on.

Just out of interest - can you get anymore of the new ones for 25 quid, it might ease the pain for my mate
 Joss 05 Feb 2007
In reply to bonster:

They are awesome. Rock Bottom Cotswolds in Betws are selling them for £25. Sadly not in my size and I need a new pair. Where are they selling for £30? Oh Yeah, by the way Im size 9 feet but need a size 10 mugen.
 bevsie 06 Feb 2007
In reply to bonster:

Hey, saw your plight an thought I'd share some light.

The Madrock Mugen was the first rock climbing shoe I bought, back in 2006, they have subsequently been replaced by my newer Montrail Wasabis (wicked), but have served me very well indeed. At that price I assume you are buying the same shoes (they are now outdated by a newer mugen) so I hope this is useful.

I bought my pair (size uk 9) and they were a very snug fit, my normal shoe size is also a 9. The velcro closure is still as secure and reliable as new, and the rubber hasnt worn away too greatly. The harder rim on the soles has led to longevity of the softer inner sole, although they are now quite thin. The heel design is heavily ridged and excellent for any heelwork.The synthetic upper (plain white) is very durable, hardly any signs of wear.

I rarely use these nowadays, except for a few brief sessions at the wall as they are quite a painful shoe! I also recommend thorough aftercare as they can grow quite smelly, and a few warm washes has not degraded any part of my shoes in any way.

Not more insider info than that, In my opinion, a very good shoe, suitable to climbers widely spanning the grades.

I would like to add that I have also tried a variety of shoes by other brands (lace-ups, slippers, velcro) and still form a high opinion of them.

Up to you now, hope this helps

Peace

bonster 06 Feb 2007
In reply to bevsie:

Good man, thanks a lot - Im gonna chalk em up today.

Cheers!
 VS4b 06 Feb 2007
In reply to bonster:

make sure you try em on as they are quite small for the size and (the old ones at least) do not stretch at all...
 tommyzero 06 Feb 2007
In reply to VS4b:

I got mine whilst away in Hong Kong (now back in London). They are the brand new ones.

My last few pairs of shoes were normal fit. As in I went for comfort and once I put them on I left them on for hours.

But I thought now that I've learnt a bit I would try a tighter fitting shoe. It could be that it's more painful to foot jam in tighter shoes but my only complaint is that it seems more painful to jam in Mugen? It also felt like one of the straps (they are quite thick) was digging in. So if I knew I was going somewhere where I was going to be foot jamming I would take other shoes. But that is rare for me to climb cracks.

Anyone share the same view?

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