In reply to The Green Giant: Hi
As a coach/instructor, I find that in the majority of times I don't give someone training regimes, mainly because I tend to coach people how to trad climb, rather than indoor climb. Often this occurs over several days, and over that time I often set specific tasks when the person is climbing so they can improve on their technique.
Outside it is nearly alway footwork and body position. As such I am giving feedback during a course, and only at the end do I give a verbal overview. Occassionally the client will write stuff down.
In terms of indoor climbing coaching. I have often gone down a performance profiling method, where I get you to rate your performance against where you want you performance to be. I then pick the 5 with the biggest difference, this is cover in my book. Its a little more complicated than it sounds.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2920
This is then combined with watching someone climb and looking for common patterns, however I have found that when the skill is broken down in performance profiling then most people become aware of there weakness.
Most of my suggestions for improvement tend to include as much about technique as about getting strong, or training stamina or power endurance. Mainly as I believe efficiency will out climb power for 90% of the people for 90% of the time.
In terms of a written feedback, I would think about writing down what you've seen.
"X climbed a F6a, struggle with clipping some QD's, clipped from a couple of poor positions and messed up crux sequence, eventually falling off because they were pumped"
Then add some of you'll thoughts, was what you saw, in that was it a sympton or a cause.
So for fluffing clipping the quickdraw is a sympton, but was it simply they haven't practiced enough, or was it they clipped it from the wrong place or hold, or were they so terrified that they were unable to do it smoothly? (these last parts are possible causes)
Similarly, did they mess the crux up because they can't read a route, or failed to plan enough ahead.
Falling off pumped is a sympton, but possible one of many causes, bad clipping off poor hold and body position, time wasted at the crux getting themselves out of the wrong sequence leading to them getting pumped and failing. Or do they need to work on there stamina.
Having identified those cause and effects, you can then write down ways to reduced what is causing negative effect on their climbing.
Hope that helps
Mark
