UKC

Looking for my first E2 lead (anywhere, not just Pembroke).

Suggestions please - nothing too desperate gear-wise or weird (ie Preposterous Tales) or requiring range training.

The Teetotallers (E1 5b) if you just want to break the grade, Keelhaul (E2 5c) if you want an incredible route, War Crime (E2 5b) or Deranged (E2 5b) if you prefer steep and easy.
The Beast from the Undergrowth (E2 5b) if you're over 5'10"

I mean, it's Pembroke. Far too many options. Every other route is a 3* E2. Just find one you get excited about, check it's not an infamous one and get on it.

Yes, question is too value! Pembroke South - will update the title...

Brazen Buttress (E2 5b) would be my recommendation, should feel alright if you're fit, no hard moves and it's absolutely incredible.

Beast has a few alternative methods so height isn't a pre-requisite.

Clean Hand Blues Band (E2 5b) is worth a look too.

War Games (E1 5b) gets E2 in the definitive 

I'm 5'2" and managed this no problems, in fact I don't remember there being a reach on it at all. Mythical Monster was definitely worse in that regard.

Chimes of Freedom (E2 5b) is amazing - the crux is hard but it's well protected and non-strenuous, with good rests before and after. Apparently easier for the short, according to my lanky partner who followed it! Surprise Attack (E2 5c) is also good if you like your routes cruxy, though the gear is a bit awkward to place.

I didn't lead it but recall Deep Space (E2 5b) being absolutely brilliant.

If you want a fun and easy E1/E2 (depending on the guide you read) then I can recommend The Gong (E1 5b). TBF it probably is more E1 than E2 but it's just great, yarding on huge holds like an indoor route, and there's a gonging stick.

Oh for sure, but if you are tall it would be a great first "E2", because if you can reach the move it's a softie.

For a first E2?? I can't get behind that. I remember not being super happy doing that fairly hard crux sequence just above the ledge. Can't see a fall there ending well. And in less than perfect conditions it would be desperate.

Chimes is great, obviously.

Fair point. Just didn't want the OP to get psyched out by talk of reaches if they were a shortie!

Used to be E1 though? I did it quite a while ago and at a time when I wasn't very comfortable leading Pembroke E2 (it may even have been on the same trip that I spent an hour+ dogging Strait Gate before escaping off left up the HVS...) so my impression was that it was soft. But techy thin moves on small positive holds in a non-pumpy position is the style of climbing I like best so my judgement might be skewed.

for clarity I am 6 ft tall

Yeah, fair. I could have been clearer. E2 either way, but the reachy way it's bottom end E2.

Yeah, it's definitely that. But on a greasy day it would be horrific. On a marginal day it was exciting. But also if you can't do it (and don't hurt yourself trying) there's not really a plan B. It's prussik time, unless the tide has done that thing it does at Mewsford. In which case you're likely to be fairly screwed.
Felt like a serious outing when I did it. Great route, and would recommend. Call me a pessimist but I'd recommend coming back to that one once E2 and 5c are the OP's happy grade

Beast will be pretty steady then. Be aware there's a good chance you'll have an audience shouting encouragement so if that's not something you thrive on maybe go for one of t'others.

I thought Deranged was very good, involving and good gear.

Deranged (E2 5b)

Left wall cromlech is classic, soft and climbing wallesque. Super well protected. Nothing to hit. And if you fall off you can just pull back on. And if you can't do it just lower off. 

In pembroke. Keelhaul is the standout. Not too intimidating, excellent. Well protected. Gets thd e2 because if you fall off you will need to prussick. And if you can't get up it what's your plan?

Brazen buttress is tough at the grade imho. Suprise attack? Big serious cliff. If it is saturated from condensation when you get in it's a big prussick out.

But really if you are having a good day somewhere and finding the e1's a foregone conclusion and you see an e2 that doesn't look too intimidating alongside, go for it.

There are good e2's eveywhere. 

That's a really good point and one I'd not thought about as my partner climbs a fair bit harder than me, so I had the comfort factor that he'd be able to climb us out if I couldn't do the route. 

Go up the HS round the corner?

Red Wall (E2 5b) Straightforward climbing, plenty of gear. You just can't trust any of it.

My first route in Pembroke was Lucky Strike (E1 5b), E2 in CC guide, at least hard E1 for me. It is a fantastic route, no doubt about it.

First blood at st govans east is great, the crux is hard but very well protected and short lived. Apart from those 10ft I'd say it is no more than E1 climbing.

Well I have done this and survived but not an experience I’d choose to repeat:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/carreg-y-barcud_area-8/mombasa-500...
 

I'm glad you said that! I think so too. There are some thin moves going right early on the second pitch. Not much for feet. The pump builds slowly but surely as well! Perhaps it's not so bad for those with good footwork.

Never Say Goodbye (Wintours) is steady, well protected and really enjoyable - Wye Valley and Avon provide plenty of E1-2s for day trips from London. For weekends away, Crinoid (S Devon) and Bleak How Buttress (Lakes) would be good early E2s.

Straite Gate at the same venue is also good and noticeably less sustained.

For quality, I'd say Swordfish is the best I've done at Pembroke. 

Agreed, but a very poor recommendation for first E2 as it’s top of the grade and if you can’t do it (the start is sometimes terribly greasy ) escape can be problematic

But polished to death

On reply to featuresforfeet:

Street Legal (E2 5c) at Mowing Word East is a nice and straightforward E2 if you can climb cracks. 
 

Charenton Crack (E2 5b) just around the corner is considerably tougher. 

Might not compare quality wise with lots of the suggestions but Vice is Nice (E2 5b) has surely got to be a bit of a soft touch for E2.

Yes, but the first point is a massive understatement.

We did it as our first route of the day, my partner was going to lead pitch 1 but wasn’t feeling it so when I jumped on I decided to lead in one big pitch, found it a real fight all the way to the top after moving past the belay ledge, massive flash pump but managed to tick it anyway! Very pleasing but not sure it’d be a great first at the grade even though it’s safe!

Agreed on Charenton crack! It was damp when I did it but even so it felt a real fight at the grade!

Isn't Strait Gate E1 and Swordfish E3? Still, at least they are actually in Pembroke.

I don't think Silver Shadow (E2 5b) has been mentioned yet. That's a belter. I thought Swordfish was E3 so not sure why that is being suggested but I haven't done it. 

IIRC the actual quality of the climbing moves is ok, and being a vertical/overhanging wall it's also fairly safe; it's the polish combined with all the crud coming down the "abseil" wall that's spoiled it and even more so its neighbour But Incest is Best (E1 5b) which is also fairly soft at E1 especially if you're ok with a bit of jamming.

I once made the mistake of using the nearby Centurion (S 4b) as an easy "escape" route - even more crud covered - not an example to be followed ☹

I was getting them mixed up, yes Silver Shadow top end E2, Swordfish bottom E3 

That was driver error - me bad.  It was Silver Shadow I'd meant to suggest.

Found this a really interesting read, in particular how others thought routes were harder/easier than my my impressions. Guess that's climbing isn't it, each individual will favour certain styles/types so pick one that favours you.

For my two cents (shorter than you, I get on better with technical than steep):

Brazen buttress - only seconded by found it hard at the grade, happy to get it clean on second.

Beast from the undergrowth - easier than I thought it was going to be. Quick commitment to the move is key. Really enjoyed the lower half too.

Deranged - great route, take lots of gear, would pick this over brazen

Keelhaul - probably my preference, you can break the route down into sections from the ground. Small cams helps. I did second it later on a more humid day and found it harder...

Vice is nice - kicked my ass the first time, and almost the second time. 

Clean hands blues gang - make sure you're warmed up and you can go up and down through the first bit. After the early steep bit you get a good rest. Bit polished but could be an option if you like steeper stuff.

First blood - hahahaha a great ego check. A good route to get your first E2 fall on.

I'd agree. Clean hand.... needs care. I've heard anecdotes of people getting hurt taking a bad swing at the lip. Would be easy to try to go too direct at the overhang. And the slab won't be any less polished than it was when I remember it being a bit unsettling.

First Blood is pretty regularly cited as a sign that you might be ready for E3, or at least forbidden fruits and the butcher and then E3.

Deranged and Keelhaul seem to keep rising to the top of the list....

If you're into techy stuff rather than steep then the butcher is not a soft E3 and First Blood is steady at E2 imho.

Deranged is good at E2 but the E is for effort and wargames/warcrimes are a touch easier.

Keelhaul is a great suggestion for slab lovers.

We've agreed to disagree on these before

I've just remembered that I did take one fall on the crux of first blood, so maybe that wasn't the best suggestion from me. But that crux is short, well protected and fingery/technical as opposed to burly like a lot of south pembs routes, so might suite some people. 

People are always saying The Butcher is soft, but I remember a weekend in Pembroke where I did a few E3's and The Butcher felt like it was one of the harder ones! I'm more of a steep stuff rather than techy stuff person as well.

To the OP. If you've got decent endurance then Charenton Crack would be a good first E2, very safe. If you have bad endurance then definitely not the one for you.

The Honey Monster E2 5b, down in Huntsman's Leap.  All routes down there are special.  This one is a fine outing, maybe straightforward at the grade.

Agree Brazen Buttress tough at the grade. Phenomenal route but i had to fight for it and I was fit at the time. Likewise I thought Deranged was excellent but also no pushover at the grade. 

I’d say Baker’s Door another good shout (my first E2) and it is conveniently right next to Keelhaul

E1 on UKC but E2 in CC. I did it last year and definitely thought E2. 

What [name snipped] said! I’d second all of this. 

Loads of good suggestions on here, and most of my favourites have been mentioned.  The softest E2 in South Pembroke used to be Jolly Sensible Arête (E1 5a) but it's only E1 now (quite rightly).

I would just stress something about Keelhaul that has already been mentioned - it does need to be properly dry.  It gets weirdly greasy when damp (especially after high seas) and then it can feel quite insecure and not nearly so much fun.

Not much mentioned in North Pembroke, but Be Clever (E2 5c) and Stingray (E2 5c) at Carreg y Barcud are pretty good and not too scary.

Thanks all - that's given me a few ideas to work with - given constraints of tides and bird-bans etc its useful to have a handful of options.

Brazen Buttress appeals as it is a crag I have been to before and an obvious line. In the past I've found the combination of being somewhere new and/or not entirely sure where to go detrimental to  my ability to get on a route at my limit.

I’d say that jolly sensible arete is pretty punchy at E1 as gear seemed very fiddly and possibly a hold or so blown on it. I did it last year thinking it’d be a walk in the park but you certainly wouldn’t want to fall off it at points…..far safer E1/2’s to be had in Pembs! 
 

stingray is a great shout though and very safe in comparison!