UKC

Hi. It has been a very long time since I have posted on UKC. My wife and I are both competent multipitch trad climbers. I have been getting back into climbing thanks to my kids interest. Kids climb F6b in the wall and have led F6a single pitched sport routes outdoors, all single pitched. We are planning in going to Cornwall in early summer, somewhere I have never been, and I am wondering whether there are any areas better for taking our kids?

Whereabouts are you headed?

An obvious one for a stop on the way into deep dark cornwall is Roche Rock. Super easy access and a 2/3 minute approach, with a range of good stuff to try, and a cool atmosphere with the old monastery. 

Don't mention the sandbag grades !

This is why I am asking the question as we are considering options on the basis of activities including climbing! 😀

Ah cool! Yeah cornwall sort of has it all depending on what you're looking for!

On the moors in North East cornwall you've got  Cheesewring Quarry and Gold Diggings Quarry for single and multi pitch sport, starting at about 6a, (but as someone else has mentioned, cornish grading can sometimes be a bit stiff for the uninitiated!). For bouldering in the same area you've got  Helman Tor which is a good kid friendly approach, or some of the higher moor areas like  Trewortha Tor. The North coast has some good hard bouldering venues around Tintagel North, but isn't as developed sea cliff wise as further down west.

For the classic cornish sea cliff experience in the deep dark west, the obvious choice would be some of the easier stuff at  Bosigran like Alison Rib (D), or if you're up for it the mega classic Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge (VD), although might be a little harder in terms of taking kids as one big group. As far as the other classic crags, you've got Sennen, Chair Ladder and anything on the Lizard, but other people will be more informed on those! Godrevy and  Carn Brea are good options for bouldering around the same area.

As I said Roche is good for easier single pitch trad either on the way down or way up but is a little out of the way of everything else for basing yourselves from, unless you were sticking around the North East area

It’s a good question. Off the top of my head I can’t think of many bolted crags (Cheesewring Quarry maybe) so you’d be into weighing up what it would be like to lead everything to start off with and taking their belay skills into account. That said, I can’t think of many better places with loads of absolute belters in the right grade range to get your kids trying to place gear and build some craft. While Dream Liberator may not be on the cards just yet, routes like Right Angle, Demo Route, Little Brown Jug, Terriers Tooth etc. may provide some adventurous outings without being overly risky. I’d do everything I could to eliminate the likelihood of epic-free climbing. 

If you want to take them  to an inspiring crag  in a stunning location, with amazing sea views, and great easy lines on impeccable granite, then Bosigran is your place. IAlison Rib, Inbetween, Big Top- single pitch D/VD - and can then move left to multi pitch Vd/Sev Andrew, Ledge Route, Clob. Then Doorway and Doorpost HS. Loads of other options.

Halldrine Cove close by is also perfect for easy single pitch in beautiful environment, closer to sea so needs a bit more care.

Sennen- mainly single pitch in stunning spot- need to plan around tides.

Lots of other good spots in West Penwith.

No disrespect to other posters but I wouldn’t bother with Roche Rock, Cheesewring, you’ll wonder why you’ve dragged your kids there.

The first pitch of Terriers Tooth fell down a few years ago and it's not the route it once was

West Penwith has all you need for a great family holiday - Sennen and Bosigran (right end) for single pitch, Trewavas also can be more sheltered (over towards the Lizard). I would see how they get on before considering more adventurous options. Chair Ladder is a mountain crag by the sea, probably not suitable initially. Sennen is also fantastic for learning to surf/bodyboard plus there are some nice hills/archaeology to explore inland if that’s your thing - eg Carn Euny fogou - might be boring as hell but still memorable!

You really feel like you are on holiday arriving at Sennen in good weather. Its a long way down though.

Thank you Sam. Oops my fault for not checking. I was thinking of adding jobs like checking access and bird bans but it settled as a general caveat to do anything to avoid epics.