This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Well?
Assume no spotters and a desire to continue being able to feed oneself for the rest of one’s life.
Some contenders:
Little Things – 6a move above a back-breaking fall
Traversties – 5b/c climbing 20 foot up
Paved Vacuum – disconcerting high 5a move.
Nursery Crack – for some reason some people have difficulty with this.
Undercut Crack – you haven’t done it ‘til you you’ve done it.
(I think the new Stanage guide has spoiled one’s fun on all of these by upgrading them, though).
Personally I would put Green Crack at Ramshaw top of my list without question – a savage 5b struggle above a clean 20 foot drop on to a rocky and sloping hillside.
Others I always find difficult are:
Chapman’s Crack at Froggatt (above an unthinkable fall down the gully, a little polished and insecure. And then you have to down climb that other VS off the Pinnacle, of course.)
Wright’s Route on Stanage. One of the easiest on the edge according to Ian Parnell, but I’ve never managed it – nasty landing, high, one committal move.
I’ve also seen some memorable displays on Outlook Chimney and Left Tower, and as I said on the other thread I quite rate The File.
I can imagine Crew Cut at Millstone, and perhaps some others there, being a contender, but I think Green Crack has it for me; even worse than the Stanage five I listed at the beginning.
Assume no spotters and a desire to continue being able to feed oneself for the rest of one’s life.
Some contenders:
Little Things – 6a move above a back-breaking fall
Traversties – 5b/c climbing 20 foot up
Paved Vacuum – disconcerting high 5a move.
Nursery Crack – for some reason some people have difficulty with this.
Undercut Crack – you haven’t done it ‘til you you’ve done it.
(I think the new Stanage guide has spoiled one’s fun on all of these by upgrading them, though).
Personally I would put Green Crack at Ramshaw top of my list without question – a savage 5b struggle above a clean 20 foot drop on to a rocky and sloping hillside.
Others I always find difficult are:
Chapman’s Crack at Froggatt (above an unthinkable fall down the gully, a little polished and insecure. And then you have to down climb that other VS off the Pinnacle, of course.)
Wright’s Route on Stanage. One of the easiest on the edge according to Ian Parnell, but I’ve never managed it – nasty landing, high, one committal move.
I’ve also seen some memorable displays on Outlook Chimney and Left Tower, and as I said on the other thread I quite rate The File.
I can imagine Crew Cut at Millstone, and perhaps some others there, being a contender, but I think Green Crack has it for me; even worse than the Stanage five I listed at the beginning.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: Great Buttress at Wharncliffe, mainly because it should be HVS, maybe E1 according to one E2 leader who led it.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
ive soloed Travesties, it was interesting. Don't know why you think its VS though, its been HVS for at least 15 years.
ive soloed Travesties, it was interesting. Don't know why you think its VS though, its been HVS for at least 15 years.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
-altar crack, rivelin
-wall buttress, stanage
i can't imagine crewcut being a particularly nice solo
green crack where?
-altar crack, rivelin
-wall buttress, stanage
i can't imagine crewcut being a particularly nice solo
green crack where?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Nah, it's very run out without large cams anyway, and quite easy.
I would have though Phoenix Climb at Shining Clough: it's very exposed at the top. Probably some of the other VSs there too.
> Crew Cut
Nah, it's very run out without large cams anyway, and quite easy.
I would have though Phoenix Climb at Shining Clough: it's very exposed at the top. Probably some of the other VSs there too.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
The Vixen VS 4b Newstones, Staffs
Valkyrie at the Roaches
Communist Crack VS 5a Five Clouds
anything at Black Rocks
The Vixen VS 4b Newstones, Staffs
Valkyrie at the Roaches
Communist Crack VS 5a Five Clouds
anything at Black Rocks
In reply to Anonymous:
Probably 'cos I was using the 1983 guidebook at the time. Are we talking about the same thing? Travesties is that neat little groove near The Knutter? Traversty is somehwre in the Plantation area.
Altar Crack - yes, good call; not done this. In the File mould: committing and high, but honest.
Wall Buttress: thought someone might suggest that. not sure I agree; quite a good landing and not that likely to come off, tho' certainly a struggle.
The Vixen: I've done this; not too bad, surely? Fairly secure.
Phoenix: yes, perhaps. I've only led this. Bloomin' long crawl back if you did snap an ankle or two, certainly.
Green Crack's at Ramshaw.
Probably 'cos I was using the 1983 guidebook at the time. Are we talking about the same thing? Travesties is that neat little groove near The Knutter? Traversty is somehwre in the Plantation area.
Altar Crack - yes, good call; not done this. In the File mould: committing and high, but honest.
Wall Buttress: thought someone might suggest that. not sure I agree; quite a good landing and not that likely to come off, tho' certainly a struggle.
The Vixen: I've done this; not too bad, surely? Fairly secure.
Phoenix: yes, perhaps. I've only led this. Bloomin' long crawl back if you did snap an ankle or two, certainly.
Green Crack's at Ramshaw.
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Valkyrie - yes, I agree. Isn't this HVS, though? I can't keep up. Communist Crack I definitely don't agree - not that high, good landing, and you don't have to stop to place gear!
Valkyrie - yes, I agree. Isn't this HVS, though? I can't keep up. Communist Crack I definitely don't agree - not that high, good landing, and you don't have to stop to place gear!
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
Black Rocks - ah yes. Queen's Parlour Slab, for example, is pretty easy really with a rope, but a friend used to have a photo of us on it which made it look like Obsession Fatale. And then there's that thing right of Lean Man's SuperDirect - I can't remember its name, but I had an embarrassing wobbler on it. VS 4b my arse.
Black Rocks - ah yes. Queen's Parlour Slab, for example, is pretty easy really with a rope, but a friend used to have a photo of us on it which made it look like Obsession Fatale. And then there's that thing right of Lean Man's SuperDirect - I can't remember its name, but I had an embarrassing wobbler on it. VS 4b my arse.
In reply to Anonymous:
25ft easy jamming = not a grim solo
>
> the file at higgar would be a grim solo.
> the file at higgar would be a grim solo.
25ft easy jamming = not a grim solo
In reply to Li'l Zé:
Fair point. Though as I recall it is quite easy. That thing at Lawrencefield wouldn't be good to fall off, actually - Excalibur, is it? Shallow-water soloing at its finest.
Fair point. Though as I recall it is quite easy. That thing at Lawrencefield wouldn't be good to fall off, actually - Excalibur, is it? Shallow-water soloing at its finest.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
some of these are tough - mostly cos they ain't VS. By comparison The File is a doodle - I have soloed it dozens of times - get back on it!
Chris
some of these are tough - mostly cos they ain't VS. By comparison The File is a doodle - I have soloed it dozens of times - get back on it!
Chris
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
ashop crack - gritty insecure offwidth, fall potential nasty and high, then a half mile roll down steep hill with small boulder and sheep hazards.
ashop crack - gritty insecure offwidth, fall potential nasty and high, then a half mile roll down steep hill with small boulder and sheep hazards.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: Actually, presuming that you had the confidence I would have thought that Altar Crack was harder to lead than to solo. The most terrifying part is taking one hand off in order to protect the crux.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Valkyrie is VS, the idea of soloing it (especially without knowing where the hidden foothold is) is quite scary though.
There must be something in Yorkshire, probably on Almscliff. Any ideas?
Valkyrie is VS, the idea of soloing it (especially without knowing where the hidden foothold is) is quite scary though.
There must be something in Yorkshire, probably on Almscliff. Any ideas?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
yes we're on about the same thing (thats why i said "Travesties" - you see the answer is in the question, say what you see, its good but its not right etc etc).
> Probably 'cos I was using the 1983 guidebook at the time. Are we talking about the same thing? Travesties is that neat little groove near The Knutter? Traversty is somehwre in the Plantation area.
yes we're on about the same thing (thats why i said "Travesties" - you see the answer is in the question, say what you see, its good but its not right etc etc).
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
I can't remember the rope being too useful (bit of gear on the traverse in?).
Agreed - but I cant remember what it's called either (do you actually mean Lean Man's SuperDirect)
> .. Queen's Parlour Slab, for example, is pretty easy really with a rope,
I can't remember the rope being too useful (bit of gear on the traverse in?).
> ..c- I can't remember its name, but I had an embarrassing wobbler on it. VS 4b my arse.
Agreed - but I cant remember what it's called either (do you actually mean Lean Man's SuperDirect)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
The Catwalk at Dovestones Edge - very exposed but technically easy.
Wouldn't like to solo Rough Wall at Brimham, unbalanced crux on sloppy holds.
Gidion at Hobson Moor has unsecure finishing moves and see's many failures from leaders.
The Catwalk at Dovestones Edge - very exposed but technically easy.
Wouldn't like to solo Rough Wall at Brimham, unbalanced crux on sloppy holds.
Gidion at Hobson Moor has unsecure finishing moves and see's many failures from leaders.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Tower Face - where Gordon is, but without that gear.
http://www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/eyehill/biog.htm
Tower Face - where Gordon is, but without that gear.
http://www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/eyehill/biog.htm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
>Wright’s Route on Stanage. One of the easiest on the edge according to Ian Parnell, but I’ve never managed it – nasty landing, high, one committal move.
Only has one hard move, the move right across the gully into the corner (possibly 5a), but I certainly wouldn't fancy soloing it.
A good friend protects on the lead.
G
>Wright’s Route on Stanage. One of the easiest on the edge according to Ian Parnell, but I’ve never managed it – nasty landing, high, one committal move.
Only has one hard move, the move right across the gully into the corner (possibly 5a), but I certainly wouldn't fancy soloing it.
A good friend protects on the lead.
G
In reply to Anonymous:
I meant Traversty. I think you mean Travesties (which is why you said Travesties, no doubt: the question perhaps is why I said Traversties.
Tower Face and Ashop Crack - yes, Kinder must have a few beauties. Not been to Hobson Moor or Wharncliffe (actually thought Great Buttress was a HVS at Dovestones Edge, but I expect there's more than one).
The Catwalk - maybe. But is it any different to lead?
I meant Traversty. I think you mean Travesties (which is why you said Travesties, no doubt: the question perhaps is why I said Traversties.
Tower Face and Ashop Crack - yes, Kinder must have a few beauties. Not been to Hobson Moor or Wharncliffe (actually thought Great Buttress was a HVS at Dovestones Edge, but I expect there's more than one).
The Catwalk - maybe. But is it any different to lead?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Neither would Tyron. Crux move right at the top a great distance from the floor.
G
> (In reply to Li'l Zé)
>
> Fair point. Though as I recall it is quite easy. That thing at Lawrencefield wouldn't be good to fall off, actually - Excalibur, is it? Shallow-water soloing at its finest.
>
> Fair point. Though as I recall it is quite easy. That thing at Lawrencefield wouldn't be good to fall off, actually - Excalibur, is it? Shallow-water soloing at its finest.
Neither would Tyron. Crux move right at the top a great distance from the floor.
G
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Central Crack at brimham for the grim top out. I've never seen anyone solo it.
Ornithologists corner at Wimberry would also be worrying. You'd roll a long way down the hill.
Central Crack at brimham for the grim top out. I've never seen anyone solo it.
Ornithologists corner at Wimberry would also be worrying. You'd roll a long way down the hill.
In reply to Graham:
Mississippi Buttress Direct is quite an absorbing solo, what with it being a bit steep and not positive.
Mississippi Buttress Direct is quite an absorbing solo, what with it being a bit steep and not positive.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
The Storm, Angelzarke - committing 5a layback with no footholds and no reversing, leading to a 45' mudslope with the odd loose rock to "hold" onto. I was scared!
The Storm, Angelzarke - committing 5a layback with no footholds and no reversing, leading to a 45' mudslope with the odd loose rock to "hold" onto. I was scared!
In reply to Anonymous:
Ornithologists corner you land on the platform unless you lose it on the overhang finish, done the drop from the roof onto the alter.
Ornithologists corner you land on the platform unless you lose it on the overhang finish, done the drop from the roof onto the alter.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Pheonix might be ok as the hard bit is only 25-30 ft up.
Waht is Transparent Wall at Ilkley now, and Bald Pate? They never had runners on so were really solos. Shudder at the thought of leading them now that I am older and wiser,
Pheonix might be ok as the hard bit is only 25-30 ft up.
Waht is Transparent Wall at Ilkley now, and Bald Pate? They never had runners on so were really solos. Shudder at the thought of leading them now that I am older and wiser,
In reply to sutty:
Mississippi Buttress – not as bad as some of the rest, I’d say. Given rubbers and a dry day, of course.
Don’t think I know this Tyron, and I certainly don’t know Anglezarke, except by reputation. Quarries don’t count, really – not proper grit.
I had a day soloing VSs at Brimham once, although whether it encompassed Rough Wall or Central Crack I can’t recall. There’s one awesome quite high thrutchy affair I ran away from, which might very plausibly be called Central Crack, but I think that was HVS. Is Central Crack down and right of Left Wall on a wall with three VS cracks on it? If so I think I did it – making the usual point of brushing aside a horde of student topropers, IIRC, and it was fine.
Still looking for anyone who’s soloed Green Crack, or even led it for that matter? (actually I think Chris Craggs has)
And actually, mention of The Vixen reminds me of another one at that crag which was graded VS in more austere days, though I doubt it is any more, called something like Sly Buttress Mantelshelf. According to my diary I once did this, although when I tried it again I couldn’t imagine how.
Bald Pate’s E2 these days, I think? Don’t know about Transparent Wall. Ilkley is not a good venue for soloing, really – too high and in the case of Rocky Valley too damned rocky also.
Mississippi Buttress – not as bad as some of the rest, I’d say. Given rubbers and a dry day, of course.
Don’t think I know this Tyron, and I certainly don’t know Anglezarke, except by reputation. Quarries don’t count, really – not proper grit.
I had a day soloing VSs at Brimham once, although whether it encompassed Rough Wall or Central Crack I can’t recall. There’s one awesome quite high thrutchy affair I ran away from, which might very plausibly be called Central Crack, but I think that was HVS. Is Central Crack down and right of Left Wall on a wall with three VS cracks on it? If so I think I did it – making the usual point of brushing aside a horde of student topropers, IIRC, and it was fine.
Still looking for anyone who’s soloed Green Crack, or even led it for that matter? (actually I think Chris Craggs has)
And actually, mention of The Vixen reminds me of another one at that crag which was graded VS in more austere days, though I doubt it is any more, called something like Sly Buttress Mantelshelf. According to my diary I once did this, although when I tried it again I couldn’t imagine how.
Bald Pate’s E2 these days, I think? Don’t know about Transparent Wall. Ilkley is not a good venue for soloing, really – too high and in the case of Rocky Valley too damned rocky also.
In reply to sutty:
TW is HVS and BP is E1 5a so neither of them can qualify unfortunately. At Ilkley, I thought Illegitimate crack was a bugger but if you're a competent thrutcher it would probably be fine.
TW is HVS and BP is E1 5a so neither of them can qualify unfortunately. At Ilkley, I thought Illegitimate crack was a bugger but if you're a competent thrutcher it would probably be fine.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Central Crack VS 5a on Cracked Buttress Brimham....used to be VS 4c and is still a horror at 5a thanks to the steep rounded offwidth finish. I've struggled to lead it and later struggled to second it....soloing it would be....incomphrensible....E5 5a/b I reckon =)
Agreed about quarried grit not really counting.
Central Crack VS 5a on Cracked Buttress Brimham....used to be VS 4c and is still a horror at 5a thanks to the steep rounded offwidth finish. I've struggled to lead it and later struggled to second it....soloing it would be....incomphrensible....E5 5a/b I reckon =)
Agreed about quarried grit not really counting.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Soloed Green Crack a few years ago while doing 100 routes found harder V Diffs. The corner was dry making the climbing OK, don't think I'd like to try it in the wet though.
Soloed Green Crack a few years ago while doing 100 routes found harder V Diffs. The corner was dry making the climbing OK, don't think I'd like to try it in the wet though.
In reply to craig h:
You did?? Harder VDiffs!?!?!?!
Respect.
We are, of course, speaking of the one at Ramshaw? Not the respectably mild one at Burbage South?
Actually that reminds me – Great Crack at Burbage and The Grazer at Stanage are both contenders. Although in both case they derive much of their difficulties from holly bushes.
You did?? Harder VDiffs!?!?!?!
Respect.
We are, of course, speaking of the one at Ramshaw? Not the respectably mild one at Burbage South?
Actually that reminds me – Great Crack at Burbage and The Grazer at Stanage are both contenders. Although in both case they derive much of their difficulties from holly bushes.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
HVS now. Tricky isn't it? Like you, I did all these way back in my youth, only to struggle or fail completely recently. C'est la vie. Do I gather from these vague repeated references that you haven't had a guide yet?
> And actually, mention of The Vixen reminds me of another one at that crag which was graded VS in more austere days, though I doubt it is any more, called something like Sly Buttress Mantelshelf. According to my diary I once did this, although when I tried it again I couldn’t imagine how.
>
>
HVS now. Tricky isn't it? Like you, I did all these way back in my youth, only to struggle or fail completely recently. C'est la vie. Do I gather from these vague repeated references that you haven't had a guide yet?
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I haven't, actually no. I was wondering whether my meagre contribution entitled me to one.
I haven't, actually no. I was wondering whether my meagre contribution entitled me to one.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
I strangely enjoyed these sorts of routes in the past. Another nomination would be any of the VS's on Dovestones Main Quarry, but Mikes Meander would be the hardest as it now lies at the base of the crag. Puting it together would take some time and a lot of glue.
I strangely enjoyed these sorts of routes in the past. Another nomination would be any of the VS's on Dovestones Main Quarry, but Mikes Meander would be the hardest as it now lies at the base of the crag. Puting it together would take some time and a lot of glue.
In reply to craig h:
Blimey. You did 100 routes at Ramshaw etc? Good effort. And as for soloing Green Crack - well, clearly I shall have to try again.
Blimey. You did 100 routes at Ramshaw etc? Good effort. And as for soloing Green Crack - well, clearly I shall have to try again.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
It was 100 round the Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw, one of the hardest days I've had out, but the 1st pint afterwards made it all worth while. Cold glass of beer on hot finger tips - aaahh
It was 100 round the Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw, one of the hardest days I've had out, but the 1st pint afterwards made it all worth while. Cold glass of beer on hot finger tips - aaahh
In reply to craig h:
It was the top section that confounded me. The 'green' bit was just grubby, not hard. Do you have any memory of how you do the move past the chockstones? I tried numerous times lurching up into a sort of technical squirm, thwarted each time by having both legs out of contact with the rock. The only other option seemed to be to try to get a leg over the lower chockstone but I'm not that bendy. Nightmare route.
> Soloed Green Crack a few years ago while doing 100 routes found harder V Diffs. The corner was dry making the climbing OK, don't think I'd like to try it in the wet though.
It was the top section that confounded me. The 'green' bit was just grubby, not hard. Do you have any memory of how you do the move past the chockstones? I tried numerous times lurching up into a sort of technical squirm, thwarted each time by having both legs out of contact with the rock. The only other option seemed to be to try to get a leg over the lower chockstone but I'm not that bendy. Nightmare route.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
another vote for Altar Crack to be placed quite high in this list. It would be extremely easy to part company with that near top.
another vote for Altar Crack to be placed quite high in this list. It would be extremely easy to part company with that near top.
In reply to Anonymous: I'd agree with Central Crack at Brimham, and nominate Hatter's Groove too for the same reason.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Have always argued (unsuccessfully) that Altar Crack is HVS 5a.
JAMIE B>
Have always argued (unsuccessfully) that Altar Crack is HVS 5a.
JAMIE B>
In reply to Fiend:
RE Storm: is that the layback at the top you're on about? Glad somebody else thought it was 5a; gets 4c in every guide I've seen. Great route though; a nut-key comes in handy for front-pointing up the mud slope!
JAMIE B>
RE Storm: is that the layback at the top you're on about? Glad somebody else thought it was 5a; gets 4c in every guide I've seen. Great route though; a nut-key comes in handy for front-pointing up the mud slope!
JAMIE B>
In reply to Fiend:
I`d be happy solo on that actually, but im on home ground of course 8-)
In reply to some others :
The file - rubbish
Miss sip dir - no way
Valkyrie - can imagine worse
I would support a vote for Altar Crack being the hardest and most mind meltingly scary.
Out of all the suggestions which ive done of course!
Never fancied the thought of soloing Rough Crack at Brimham either.
Some theory though : Practise = repetition = famillarity = considers solo easy
I`m a genius dudes 8-)
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously1)
>
> Central Crack VS 5a on Cracked Buttress Brimham........soloing it would be....incomphrensible
>
.
>
> Central Crack VS 5a on Cracked Buttress Brimham........soloing it would be....incomphrensible
>
I`d be happy solo on that actually, but im on home ground of course 8-)
In reply to some others :
The file - rubbish
Miss sip dir - no way
Valkyrie - can imagine worse
I would support a vote for Altar Crack being the hardest and most mind meltingly scary.
Out of all the suggestions which ive done of course!
Never fancied the thought of soloing Rough Crack at Brimham either.
Some theory though : Practise = repetition = famillarity = considers solo easy
I`m a genius dudes 8-)
In reply to Neil Kershaw:
It's HVS isn't it?
>
> Can't believe no one has mentioned Rivelin's Roof Route.
> Can't believe no one has mentioned Rivelin's Roof Route.
It's HVS isn't it?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
And these are graded 'VS'.....why so ?
>
> Little Things – 6a move above a back-breaking fall
> Traversties – 5b/c climbing 20 foot up>
> Little Things – 6a move above a back-breaking fall
> Traversties – 5b/c climbing 20 foot up>
And these are graded 'VS'.....why so ?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Valkyrie is VS in the Definitive guide.
The Vixen and Comunist Crack a "safe" in the sense that you either can't get off the ground on them or can't release your blood stained hand from their vicious grasp
Valkyrie is VS in the Definitive guide.
The Vixen and Comunist Crack a "safe" in the sense that you either can't get off the ground on them or can't release your blood stained hand from their vicious grasp
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: agree with you on green crack.i had to do it as my uncle did the 1st asscent in the '70's.its one of the few vs ive done on a rope.it would take someone to buy me a cpl pints to solo it
In reply to Jamie B.:
Yes, I would give it that. I seconded it about a couple of years ago when unfit and it didn't seem much easier than R Unconquerable! Great achievement by Dick Brown back in about 1948 (a v modest guy, and an exceptionally amusing raconteur.) He told me he made 'no impression' on the first crack of Valkyrie at Froggatt, just before Brown did it, so obviously his layback technique was much better than his jamming.
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
>
> Have always argued (unsuccessfully) that Altar Crack is HVS 5a.
>
> JAMIE B>
>
> Have always argued (unsuccessfully) that Altar Crack is HVS 5a.
>
> JAMIE B>
Yes, I would give it that. I seconded it about a couple of years ago when unfit and it didn't seem much easier than R Unconquerable! Great achievement by Dick Brown back in about 1948 (a v modest guy, and an exceptionally amusing raconteur.) He told me he made 'no impression' on the first crack of Valkyrie at Froggatt, just before Brown did it, so obviously his layback technique was much better than his jamming.
In reply to Kipper:
Lean Man's Eliminate - hard jamming for VS followed by a move that takes a long time to figure out whilst you're arms are tiring. The only VS I've failed on for 10 years and I've failed on twice in that time.
> [...]
>
> Agreed - but I cant remember what it's called either (do you actually mean Lean Man's SuperDirect)
>
> Agreed - but I cant remember what it's called either (do you actually mean Lean Man's SuperDirect)
Lean Man's Eliminate - hard jamming for VS followed by a move that takes a long time to figure out whilst you're arms are tiring. The only VS I've failed on for 10 years and I've failed on twice in that time.
In reply to mark s:
Off topic for a second :-
Best homepage I've ever seen
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~blagger/the_duel.html
Off topic for a second :-
Best homepage I've ever seen
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~blagger/the_duel.html
In reply to Anonymous:
Yes, that first layback is v hard, but in terms of soloing *all* you're going to do is hurt yourself v badly - whereas Lean Man's Superdirect is a death route if you come off the second crux (i.e. pitch 2), soloing. As Alf Bridge - I think it was - realised after doing the first ascent in the 30s, when he reckoned it was too unjustifiable to write up in the journals.
Someone suggested Missisippi B Direct earlier. No way; that is a v positive route with plenty of rests. LMS is much harder, IMO.
Yes, that first layback is v hard, but in terms of soloing *all* you're going to do is hurt yourself v badly - whereas Lean Man's Superdirect is a death route if you come off the second crux (i.e. pitch 2), soloing. As Alf Bridge - I think it was - realised after doing the first ascent in the 30s, when he reckoned it was too unjustifiable to write up in the journals.
Someone suggested Missisippi B Direct earlier. No way; that is a v positive route with plenty of rests. LMS is much harder, IMO.
In reply to Anonymous:
Sorry, realise I am talking complete crap in that I was confusing LME with LM Climb! Former is notorious. I see it is given 'VS 4b' in On Peak Rock! Can't believe that was Chris Cragg's verdict..!!
Sorry, realise I am talking complete crap in that I was confusing LME with LM Climb! Former is notorious. I see it is given 'VS 4b' in On Peak Rock! Can't believe that was Chris Cragg's verdict..!!
In reply to Kipper: good int it
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
In my Black Rocks miniguide
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=47
I gave it VS 4c,4c "both pitches being almost 5a"
Chris
In my Black Rocks miniguide
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=47
I gave it VS 4c,4c "both pitches being almost 5a"
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Sorry, Chris, for that slightly cheeky comment. How does it compare overall with the Superdirect? I think the first pitch of LMS is definitely 5a, and the second, if not 5a, is 'almost 5a' in your terminology. A tremendous 3-star route (maybe thankfully given only one star in most guides). I think it's one of the best VS's in the Peak, actually.
Sorry, Chris, for that slightly cheeky comment. How does it compare overall with the Superdirect? I think the first pitch of LMS is definitely 5a, and the second, if not 5a, is 'almost 5a' in your terminology. A tremendous 3-star route (maybe thankfully given only one star in most guides). I think it's one of the best VS's in the Peak, actually.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Thank you Mark S!!
Have done some research - it was Central Crack at Brimham I was thinking of - not too bad at all. For some reason this wall appears to have a Central Crack and a Right Hand Crack, but no Left Hand Crack.
The hideous high thrutchy crack I ran away from, though, seems to have been Minion's Way. Isn't this notorious for having a difficult hand jam at the start?! I don't remember that causing too much difficulty, either upwards or indeed downwards, but the upper section on the other hand.....
Thank you Mark S!!
Have done some research - it was Central Crack at Brimham I was thinking of - not too bad at all. For some reason this wall appears to have a Central Crack and a Right Hand Crack, but no Left Hand Crack.
The hideous high thrutchy crack I ran away from, though, seems to have been Minion's Way. Isn't this notorious for having a difficult hand jam at the start?! I don't remember that causing too much difficulty, either upwards or indeed downwards, but the upper section on the other hand.....
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Just the other wed evening, i finally got off the ground on Minions Way. Having presumed it impossible 2 years ago (my first year climbing, and giving it plenty of attempts last year, there I was on it, above mat, no belayer for top half. So I soloed it all knowing it couldn`t be harder at the top layback. Can do it every time now. Typical problem then!
Just the other wed evening, i finally got off the ground on Minions Way. Having presumed it impossible 2 years ago (my first year climbing, and giving it plenty of attempts last year, there I was on it, above mat, no belayer for top half. So I soloed it all knowing it couldn`t be harder at the top layback. Can do it every time now. Typical problem then!
In reply to Salamanda:
Not VS however! 8-)
Not VS however! 8-)
In reply to Anonymous:
mmmmmm......wonder who that could be?
mmmmmm......wonder who that could be?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Based on the fact that one of my friends almost died slipping off Crew Cut, I would suggest that. The guy was, and amazingly STILL is, an extremely competent soloist/ mountaineer; his foot just slipped - followed by a week in intensive care...
I hate soloing laybacks, I still have nightmares after soloing Murray's Direct on Dow Crag, err 25 years ago?
Cheers,
Based on the fact that one of my friends almost died slipping off Crew Cut, I would suggest that. The guy was, and amazingly STILL is, an extremely competent soloist/ mountaineer; his foot just slipped - followed by a week in intensive care...
I hate soloing laybacks, I still have nightmares after soloing Murray's Direct on Dow Crag, err 25 years ago?
Cheers,
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Ignoring for the moment many of the bizzare suggestions here (some of which I have soloed) and some which are no longer VS in definitive or Rockfax guides. I think you would be looking for tough but protected routes which are often dirty or sandy. Anyway my vote is Fantasy at Gardoms, I dont know of a harder VS now Little Things is approaching its correct grade (somewhere in the extreme band). That is ignoring The Moorside Girdle on the same crag which is OK with mats and spotters.
Ignoring for the moment many of the bizzare suggestions here (some of which I have soloed) and some which are no longer VS in definitive or Rockfax guides. I think you would be looking for tough but protected routes which are often dirty or sandy. Anyway my vote is Fantasy at Gardoms, I dont know of a harder VS now Little Things is approaching its correct grade (somewhere in the extreme band). That is ignoring The Moorside Girdle on the same crag which is OK with mats and spotters.
In reply to Jonathan T: a nasty solo indeed, the hard moves near the top right above that bush just waiting to spike your arse.
In reply to simon cox: its an offwidth why was he laybacking?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
The Scoop @ Caley
The Scoop @ Caley
In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:
Jaberwock at Brimham Rocks is nails for VS. In fact Yorks grit is nails in general when you compare it to the Peak.
Enjoy....
Jaberwock at Brimham Rocks is nails for VS. In fact Yorks grit is nails in general when you compare it to the Peak.
Enjoy....
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...