UKC

Outdoor bouldering can be one of the most rewarding and easily accessible ways to get out on rock. In this new series, we take a tour through different regions of the UK exploring the best boulder problems in the 4s, 5s and 6s.

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Interesting article. I'm always curious at lists like this, because I think the idea of "best" is useful in the sense that it reveals what the wider community considers to be aesthetically desirable and so on 

Anyway, mostly quite high insecure climbing is apparently what the community considers to be aesthetically desirable it would seem! That and tricky high foot smears. I'd maybe hesitate to agree with the list but it is a view.

Every list has its biases and I've no doubt that this has ours and Inigo's etched into it.

That said, what you've described - insecure climbing, tricky feet, smears - is pretty much quintessential Grit. That subtly of movement, and ease of slipping off when you're not precise enough with your foot placements, is what makes it such a great (and/or frustrating) medium to climb on.

I'd also say that there's never going to be a single list that's 'the list', but I do like the fact that there's lots of lists (just look at the various ticklists/wishlists for a whole load more). 

I'm strongly in favour of lists, as an inveterate peurile ticker. I would say though, if you're new to gritstone bouldering, most of this list is going to put the willies up you, so to speak. However, tick them all and you'll certainly come out all the better for it, having had a memorable time.

I look forward to an Everest-esque photo of multiple people hauling themselves up to Dovestone Tor.

Don't tempt me to write another list Chris...or do...

Much like you I'm fully in favour of lists, so the more the merrier  😂

Nice, love a list particularly if it inspires, as always they are never complete in the eye of the reader, and this list is no different, I would have loved to see Sitting Duck at Burbage South on this list as its one of my favs

A few more from Western grit that I feel could have/should have made this list... Swivel finger, Finger of Fate, Starlight and Storm, Staffordshire Flyer, Charlies Overhang. So many great mid 6's. 

Wow. Not a single mention of any Chew Valley problems. Way to go promoting the honeypotting! 

I'm not sure there are many true 3* 6's in the Chew? I love the bouldering there and up at Black Tor, Pots and Pans etc just it seems the best problems are in the 7's. Happy to be proved wrong if you have a list for me to go at though. 

Stuff the 6s, what about decent 5s and even 4s for us fat, old, weak punters ☹️

And in response to the article itself, although it's hard to avoid inclusion, I don't like seeing Crescent Arête "advertised". I know it's brilliant, accessible and a bit obvious since it's right next to the path, but it's so eroded and needs all the TLC it can get.

Err it says in the original post “we take a tour through different regions of the UK exploring the best boulder problems in the 4s, 5s and 6s.”

There are loads of good problems around at those grades both in the Chew and elsewhere, as with the 6's though i can't think of any 4's or 5's that would get 3*. Something about the rock in that area doesn't seem to lend itself to great easy problems. If  i was pushed i would say Baby Wolverine and the other problems on that block at Black Tor are the nicest i have done in the area. 

Elephants Eye at Baldstones is definitely worth the wander over, very fun problem and Sly Stallone for anyone wanting an amenable Dyno 

That's a peculiar list of ten "best" problems.

Si.

If only the first 2 paragraphs of the article said something like 

What about problems that sometimes feel like 7a?

Exhibit A - Strawberries (f6B)

Exhibit B - Egg Arête (f6B)

There is a knack and cold conditions help. I've done it several times and I've never climbed anything near f7A

I refuse to believe it's less than 8C+. Even after I've done it I still think Ondra would drop the flash.

Lol... as per Marie Rose (much harder than Egg Arete).

Egg arete is way harder than Marie rose. Except the time you do it, when it feels absolutely piss. But not subsequently when you can't do it again.

Despite clearly being 'one of those bogey problems' for some, logbook votes still average at low 6B. Boulder grades are a nominal average experience for the easiest way (often very much disguised by how hard flash attempts feel). The idea of a list for such problems would be great fun.

I never had any trouble repeating it when conditions were good and I've always been someone who would normally have to work very hard for success on proper 6As. To be fair, it's pre-covid since I last climbed it, so maybe those desperate for the tick in bad conditions have polished it up a bit more. I despair at times when watching people flail on classics, with no thought on movement (nor sadly sometimes, cleaning shoes).

I'd agree it's low 6B but only for one randomly selected attempt per session. For all the others it's top end 7A+

I did it on Friday, for such a workable problem it's in very good nick actually!

Good to hear.