The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An intimidating but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the faultline. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche (old peg), move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. A good alternative (slightly harder) start (HVS 5b) takes the deep corner on the right to the roof then goes left to join the parent route. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10/Apr/1966.
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chris_Tee | 16 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First ever route at boulder ruckle. Remember it feeling pretty stiff for HVS! Welcome to Hard Very Swanage... |
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Chris the Tall | 17 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route in awesome position. Glad I did it in one pitch, even though rope drag became a problem. Thought the moves going past the bulge were 5a, but it's possible I went too high before starting the traverse |
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Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 22 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Who knows- 4c certainly feels like 5a when your in a position like that (and totally gripped)! Better climbed in two pitches? |
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hotsteve33 | 13 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is an awesome and exposed easy HVS, and is probably best to split at the mid-height fault, because of rope drag. A good introduction to boulder ruckle |
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Alex More | 29 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Classic first ruckle experience will be back for more, nice and exposed all the way up! |
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Oli | 20 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was pretty fair at the grade. Exposure is great, traversing above the roof. Second the fact that communication is difficult. Don't try and do the second pitch on a single rope.... it works, but isn't pretty. |
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Graham Ad | 2 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent and graded correctly. Good gear. Had to lasso the stake with slings at the top as I ran out of rope!! Communication with second difficult (as ever!). |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)