Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A classic. The arete to the right of Urizen is one of the finest routes at Baggy Point and sees a lot of traffic. Start at the foot of the corner of Urizen. Move up slightly and climb right, around the arete past a small corner to a crack-line in the face. Follow the line of cracks and large holds right of the arete to the top. © Rockfax
15 Climbs to do before you die , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , I want a Pasty! , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , South West Coastal Solo
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jamesb101 | 1 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: We had a classic situation of ‘just one more route’ before the tide got too high… There wasn’t really enough time and Oli has only narrowly missed getting pounded by the waves as I climbed v quickly | βeta? | |
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βeta: We had a classic situation of ‘just one more route’ before the tide got too high… There wasn’t really enough time and Oli has only narrowly missed getting pounded by the waves as I climbed v quickly |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 24 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: You need to abseil down from the top stake Easier clamber back up without rope Crag to ourselves Created sling belay 2/3rds up route for Andre to get some warm up too | βeta? | |
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βeta: You need to abseil down from the top stake Easier clamber back up without rope Crag to ourselves Created sling belay 2/3rds up route for Andre to get some warm up too |
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jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Lovely climbing, you just don’t want it to end. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely climbing, you just don’t want it to end. |
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Beyond The Trail | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The access to the crest of the slab is best achieved with an abseil then careful alpine-style moving together. *some loose blocks near the top* | ||
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βeta: The access to the crest of the slab is best achieved with an abseil then careful alpine-style moving together. *some loose blocks near the top* |
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Liz.Morrison | 4 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Spicey first move then it gets easier. Worth reaching over and protecting the crack with a cam before you transition on to the slab and climb the crack. | ||
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βeta: Spicey first move then it gets easier. Worth reaching over and protecting the crack with a cam before you transition on to the slab and climb the crack. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)