Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 107m a.s.l
Faces SW
Rory crushing © dan23584
South west facing limestone roof. Please read access details below, particulary where you are allowed to park. Thank you.
Only between and including: 1st May - September 30th
Access:
Parking:
Leave the tarmac road, go PAST the entrance to Doward Park Campsite Private Carpark (please DO NOT park here), drive down the gravel lane approx 150 metres and park in the FREE Public Parking area (approx. 20+ spaces) located BEFORE the GREEN BARRIER for Biblins Campsite (Driving past the green barrier could stop ambulances from reaching Biblins Campsite which is very bad!)
Walk downhill past a low green barrier and then straight into the woods. Go down past the quarry on the right, keep going down in till the main path goes off right, and you will see a slightly rocky path in front of you, follow this down until you reach some limestone "steps", scramble down and the cave will be on the left.
DO NOT VEAR FROM PATH OR REMOVE ANY VEGITATION!.
Natural England have been great to work with in unbanning the cave for bouldering here, however there are many RULES THAT MUST BE STUCK TO, or the cave will be banned again almost instantly.
Rules:
1.Bouldering only! No gear, no routes, no bolts, no top roping.
2. No removal of any vegetation no matter how minimal, with no exceptions what so ever. This is a nature conservation site and an SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so although a plant or tree may look ordinary, some of them are the only know locations in the country.
3.Only allowed to climb from May - September each year because of possible hibernating bats. There are no bats currently present in the cave but if you see any please report to crag moderator (James Squire) immediately.
4. Stick to the paths (see access details), no cutting corners or walking off on tangents. Try and avoid stepping on plants or ferns, or snapping twigs off trees.
5. Stick to the cave area and walls either side, as this is the only area unbanned, do not climb in Arthurs Cave which is a tourist attraction about 500m from this cave.
6.General bouldering rules e.g. don't drop litter etc. http://www.climbingworks.com/
Access is only permitted from May - September.
Natural England have worked with climbers to develop a set of guidelines which allow access to this bouldering area. It is essential that the guidelines are followed, otherwise access could be banned again as it has been in the past.
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