Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.
Rockfax Description
A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © Rockfax
FA. B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham, C.Heard 29/Jun/1980.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , James' Summer Ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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fammer | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Take micro wires | ||
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βeta: Take micro wires |
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Fiend | 27 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: A very nice E3 slab when done with the CC-authorised original start. Everything is just great on this route from the intricate start to the well-positioned finish, and it's all pretty relaxing too. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very nice E3 slab when done with the CC-authorised original start. Everything is just great on this route from the intricate start to the well-positioned finish, and it's all pretty relaxing too. |
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GDes | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: never even close to E4. steady away E3. aBsolutely brilliant route/ | βeta? | |
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βeta: never even close to E4. steady away E3. aBsolutely brilliant route/ |
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John Alcock | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Many south west climbers' first E4 on-sight. The gear is good but slightly spaced. Take some RPs/small wires for the crux. One of my all time favourite climbs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Many south west climbers' first E4 on-sight. The gear is good but slightly spaced. Take some RPs/small wires for the crux. One of my all time favourite climbs. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Huntsman's Leap)