The lower section of Paradise Wall has many nesting birds and is best avoided in the summer months. The area is also important for breeding seals which are vulnerable to disturbance from September to late October.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers all routes from Pandour Buttress to Moon Buttress inclusive in the Pendower Coves area.
The nesting restriction which previously covered the route Excaliber at Carn Les Boel has been lifted and all routes left (looking in) of Pandour Buttress are now unrestricted.
Rockfax Description
A splendid, little-travelled foray into beautiful surroundings. Great positions, rock and climbing make this route a must for those searching for solitude on busy days. Birds usually nest on the stance at the top of the pinnacle between March and the end of June (do not climb the route during this period).
Start from good ledges at the base of the approach abseil.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto and then rightwards up the wall to a ledge, poor gear. Continue to a belay at the base of a large corner.
2) 5a, 20m. Ascend the steep corner to its end on top of a pinnacle. Climb the steep wall above to finish. © Rockfax
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Kernow
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Head Area)