Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A challenging pitch that doesn't let up. Start below the hand-crack of Oesophagus. Move up thin cracks to the overhang and boldly swing up and right along a flake to the arete. Move up the arete before traversing a short way left to the foot of a wide crack. Head up the crack and headwall, past a thread, to positive holds and a bolted belay above. Abseil off or finish up easy ground (as for pitch 2 of Combined Ops).
Combined Combat, E2 5c - Start up Combined Ops (p.572) and move left to the upper section of Combat. A fine sustained pitch which avoids the serious start of Combat. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn 1971.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Haytor)