Rockfax Description
A great route that is best used as an extension to routes on the East Buttress. Scramble up to spike belay below a corner, right of the arete of Authentic Desire.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the groove on worrying holds for 9m, then traverse left on flakes towards a ledge on the arete. Move up (old peg up and right is not needed) onto the arete to a crack. Make committing moves up this then an easier traverse left leads to the base of another groove. Climb this to a belay.
2) 8m. Climb easily up then left to a stance above Octo. Scramble off right or, better, tackle the next route... © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , Alex's Wales ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Rhiw Goch)