The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the crag featuring sustained and technical climbing with generally excellent protection. Begin 4m right of the ground-level tree. Move up to a break and go left to a little corner with a peg above. From the peg move delicately left around the shallow rib to a slab beneath a slim crack. Follow the lovely crack past pegs to a horizontal break. Move left to a tree and climb the crack above to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 29.5.76 29/May/1976.
Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Mike Raine | 24 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I agree, fine climb, def 5c | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree, fine climb, def 5c |
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Tyler | 9 May, 2005 |
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βeta: A definite 3 star route by any standard, first bold, then a trick move then pumpy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A definite 3 star route by any standard, first bold, then a trick move then pumpy. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Dinbren Crags)