Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Direct but not very grim, unless someone abseils on your head, which does happen! Start right of the vegetated gully at the first flattening on the approach path, past the base of Void.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to the top and move up and left onto a slab. Traverse left to a steepening and move up a faint groove over the bulge to another slab. Move up the slab to a flake/crack on the left and continue up a small rib to its right into a bay below another steepening. Move up and left over this before stepping back right to a tree belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Head straight up and make a committing move up the wall to gain easier climbing that leads to a roof in a right-facing groove. Move right around the roof and into the upper groove and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , High Quality Adventure routes , Extreme 2018 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Jonesy's leg day ticklist
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)