Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A thrutchy chimney leading to more open climbing above. Start below the chimney.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the chimney - harder inside, easier, but bolder outside. From the top of the chimney step left and climb the flake and wall to a belay at the base of a big flake/pinnacle.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the flake/pinnacle then make hard moves left past a polished and often-damp crack to a fin. Move up and right to gain a shallow groove. Climb this to its end and then move right onto the final slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
No longer climbable after significant rock removal. Now climbed as Momentum E2 6a.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , High Quality Adventure routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| treesrockice | 14 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Shadrach or something similar at VS looks like it would still be possible by starting up the first pitch of Emily Street going left before the crux, or going up Meshach and not traversing left. Finding a top pitch at about VS looks probable by going up a crack between the ledge where the block was and the line of Blinkers then heading right to join what has always been the final part of the line into the corner and up. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Shadow Wall
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)