Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
The most famous route at Tremadog is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky since much of it never gets rained on, but the positions and line are phenomenal. Start up and right of One Step in the Clouds on a large flake.
1) 5a, 15m. Step off the flake and climb a groove, then step onto a slab on the right. Follow a corner up and left then move left again to the belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up right past a small spike to a difficult crack which leads to a massive spike. Make hard moves up to the base of a groove. Another brave move right leads onto the infamous 'Ochre Slab'. Climb the slab then move left into another groove. At its top, move left below the roof to gain the cave stance. Up to this point can often be climbed in light rain, then you can abseil off.
3) 5b, 20m. Traverse left, then pull diagonally leftwards over a roof onto another hanging slab. Continue left to the final layback corner (some people find getting into this the crux), then swarm up the crack to the belay on One Step in the Clouds.
4) 4b, 15m. Move up and right to just left of the flake of One Step in the Clouds and make thin moves up the wall to a memorable mantelshelf to gain a large ledge. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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jeanclaudehandjam | 10 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Led P1+4. Toe popped on the slab and had to weight rope to retrieve cam on P3. Tough. Great clean lead by Matt | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led P1+4. Toe popped on the slab and had to weight rope to retrieve cam on P3. Tough. Great clean lead by Matt |
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Spottykidfromstourbridge | 18 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Woody went from overwhelmed to cruising it in style..! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Woody went from overwhelmed to cruising it in style..! |
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TwofoZeus | 24 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor. |
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benrhyd | 19 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))