Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Grasper's bigger and harder brother gives desperately cramped bridging in a position of tremendous exposure. Start below a corner to the right of Grasper (Clapton's Crack).
1) 5c, 20m. Move leftwards into a niche and continue in the same direction to a small ledge. Make some hard moves up to another ledge in the centre of the wall. Some more testing climbing leads to overhangs level with the Grasper belay. Shuffle left to belay here.
2) 6b, 18m. Follow Grasper up to the groove and make tricky moves down and right to a ledge below the next groove over. Flamboyant shape-pulling, extreme effort and a lot of sweat and grunting seem to be the prerequisites for success. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Ultimate E4 ticklist , UK smearing corners
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Musgrove Jnr | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 3 pegs in the grove are all pretty rusty. Not really a problem as there’s other gear but a bit disconcerting. Left of the arête by the top peg you can place a lovely cam 1. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The 3 pegs in the grove are all pretty rusty. Not really a problem as there’s other gear but a bit disconcerting. Left of the arête by the top peg you can place a lovely cam 1. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Mural
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)