Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
The route of the crag, perhaps the best of its grade on Gower that takes the groove system up the centre of the crag.
1) 5c, 32m. Head up the groove to a triangular overhang, turn this on its left, then move back up right to below a corner. Follow the corner with difficulty to a ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 14m. Boldly climb the corner groove that leads to another more secure feeling groove and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start beneath the most prominent groove in the centre-left of the wall beneath a triagular overhang.
1) 5c, 33m. Climb the first groove to the overhang, move left to a possible belay in a cave. Move diagonally rightwards, PR, to the obvious corner. Climb stylishly or fight your way to a large ledge.
2) 5c, 12m. Climb the leftward-leaning groove on the left side of the ledge. A bold start leads to slightly more secure climbing and the top.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
User | Date | Notes | ||
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islandlynx | 21 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: accessed about 1 hour after a lowish high tide in calm seas | βeta? | |
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βeta: accessed about 1 hour after a lowish high tide in calm seas |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)