Rockfax Description
The tallest section of the South Face is taken by this smashing climb. Start at the base of a right-leaning flake crack. Climb the flake crack to the horizontal break and make a tricky move to stand on a ledge above it. Move left to a flake and climb up this and the wall above to a small rounded boss. Traverse right to more good holds and follow these to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Probabally the best route on the main face, although the exact route is slighly undefined/confusing. Climb easily up the flake on the main wall, to a strenuous and possibly undignified!(if tackled direct) move onto the ledge. From the ledge "find the easiest line up" (probabally out left) to bag the VDiff, or tackle it direct for a slightly harder challenge (S?). Then again,start up the wall to the left of the flake for a harder (5b) problem.
West Country Climbs , Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day , 40 For 40 , I want a Pasty! , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , By May…
User | Date | Notes | ||
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RupertHSmith | 21 Apr |
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βeta: Half ropes would have been really useful! I didn't find the bottom section up to the ledge too bad - and very easy to protect. The move off the ledge up the flake is committing but good holds are found above (*The juggy flake you attain is quite hollow*). Difficult to protect the next moves from the good holds (even though easy climbing from here), ended up placing a piece way out left then traversing back onto the route which caused horrendous rope drag (half ropes would make this easy) but otherwise would have been very bold. | ||
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βeta: Half ropes would have been really useful! I didn't find the bottom section up to the ledge too bad - and very easy to protect. The move off the ledge up the flake is committing but good holds are found above (*The juggy flake you attain is quite hollow*). Difficult to protect the next moves from the good holds (even though easy climbing from here), ended up placing a piece way out left then traversing back onto the route which caused horrendous rope drag (half ropes would make this easy) but otherwise would have been very bold. |
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KKormos | 8 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Feels tricky and scary for VD | βeta? | |
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βeta: Feels tricky and scary for VD |
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Mallace | 29 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Good lead, tricky moves, bad gear for anchor | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good lead, tricky moves, bad gear for anchor |
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Sue Hasel | 23 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A strenuous move onto the ledge, can protect with cam placed down into the flake from above into the crack, stem bending over the ledge, as description says “strenuous and possibly undignified” Certainly was for me! belly flop! Tricky above the next flake as no gear but may have gone too high before traversing right to other flake, felt very tenuous for a vdiff! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A strenuous move onto the ledge, can protect with cam placed down into the flake from above into the crack, stem bending over the ledge, as description says “strenuous and possibly undignified” Certainly was for me! belly flop! Tricky above the next flake as no gear but may have gone too high before traversing right to other flake, felt very tenuous for a vdiff! |
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Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)