Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.
A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.
Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.
Dates: 31 March to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:
- Unrestricted (year round access)
- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August
- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September
Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.
Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions.
Unrestricted
Restricted 31 March - 14 August
Restricted 31 March - 15 September
These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Lundy , South West in Extremis
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Ghost | 29 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard to find abseil point! Abseil off the left hand side (looking out) of the ledge at the top of buttress. We abseiled off the right hand side, which meant I had to re-belay half way down to avoid penduluming into the zawn! On second pitch, climb direct up through notch above belay, which involves a very awkward move, and don't go left at the first traverse line (which is much harder - unless that is your plan!). Step up a move or two to find the easier traverse line, which is great fun! Fantastic climb, best of the trip! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Hard to find abseil point! Abseil off the left hand side (looking out) of the ledge at the top of buttress. We abseiled off the right hand side, which meant I had to re-belay half way down to avoid penduluming into the zawn! On second pitch, climb direct up through notch above belay, which involves a very awkward move, and don't go left at the first traverse line (which is much harder - unless that is your plan!). Step up a move or two to find the easier traverse line, which is great fun! Fantastic climb, best of the trip! |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)