Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
As good an E2 as you will find anywhere with a hard start and a 'go for it' finish. Climb steeply up into the corner (hard) and follow it to moves out right. Easier climbing leads up to the roof then steep moves up the groove gain some breaks. Pause only briefly before moving left and aiming for the fence posts that stick out over the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
FA. Robin Barley, Dennis Gray 1964.
Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 14 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks. |
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phatlad | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at |
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Stone Muppet | 12 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them! |
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Grinning Donkey | 30 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame... |
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Bob | 20 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: What's the flutter symbol for? | βeta? | |
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βeta: What's the flutter symbol for? |
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GDes | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it! |
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GeoffG | 19 Jan, 2004 |
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βeta: wheres the 6a? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: wheres the 6a? |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Crookrise)