Rockfax Description
Another of those gripping square-cut aretes. A couple of hand-placed pegs provide much needed protection. © Rockfax
FA. Neil Foster (solo) 1983.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Neil's New Routes , Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come , The Foster Five
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mark20 | 5 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Checked the gear on a quick ab, then climbed first go from the ground. Apparently it originally climbed on LHS all the way, I just muddled up it any how, mainly on the right. I don't think this is independent enough to be called a different / new route though. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Checked the gear on a quick ab, then climbed first go from the ground. Apparently it originally climbed on LHS all the way, I just muddled up it any how, mainly on the right. I don't think this is independent enough to be called a different / new route though. |
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Neil Foster | 23 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Interesting video upload, and a stylish, smooth lead portrayed. But in case anyone is confused, the route shown isn't Winter's Grip which climbs the left side of the arete (mostly slapping your right up the arete) all the way. Hopefully people will enjoy the original, albeit with a type of protection - hand placed pegs - which had only just been invented (on No More Excuses at Stanage), and certainly wasn't on the first ascentionist's radar at the time, hence the solo FA. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Interesting video upload, and a stylish, smooth lead portrayed. But in case anyone is confused, the route shown isn't Winter's Grip which climbs the left side of the arete (mostly slapping your right up the arete) all the way. Hopefully people will enjoy the original, albeit with a type of protection - hand placed pegs - which had only just been invented (on No More Excuses at Stanage), and certainly wasn't on the first ascentionist's radar at the time, hence the solo FA. |
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Graham Hoey | 15 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crux move above break is adequately protected by Friends on left and short knife blade in slot on rhs of arete. Upper moves can also be protected by a short knife blade. Both blades will take body weight downward, but your judgement on just how good they are for taking a fall! If you're happy with them the route won't feel E6. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Crux move above break is adequately protected by Friends on left and short knife blade in slot on rhs of arete. Upper moves can also be protected by a short knife blade. Both blades will take body weight downward, but your judgement on just how good they are for taking a fall! If you're happy with them the route won't feel E6. |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)