Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
This direct route up the wall between Strait Gate and the arete. Climb the wall, on some large sharp holds and cracks, to a break. Move up slightly rightwards to reach some good holds. Stand up on these, step left, and make hard moves up the wall above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 28/May/1987.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's East)