235m, 6 pitches.
On the west face just few meter before entering the gully. It can also be started at the same starting point of the "west arete" and then following the right going crack.
Pitch1: 50m IV Start on left going crack for 25m up to a ledge(the ledge is the starting point of the west arete) then follow right going crack for 25m. 2 bolts anchor.
Pitch 2: 30m VII+ Follow the obvious crack then some broken rock. (shares the 2 bolt anchor with “West arete”)
Pitch 3: 45m V Go diagonally right over some broken rock (not an obvious line) until you find the traversing crack. Follow the traversing crack until the gully. Communication issues. 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: 30m V Go up the gully. Loose Rocks.(shares the 2 bolt anchor with “West arete”)
Pitch 5: 50m II Follow the arete (on the north side) until you find a small gully with a cypress tree. Go through the gully and the 2 bolt anchor is on the vertical face facing South. (Same pitch with “West arete”)
Pitch 6: 30m III Go up and then follow the rich until you find one bolt on the highest point. (Same pitch with “West arete”) The rappel/abseil anchor is on the south facing wall 1m from the single bolt.
3 rappels/abseils 40m long each (2 bolts each anchor)
Note: The upper half of the first pitch is the first pitch of the old route "Mandarin"
Pitch1: 50m IV Start on left going crack for 25m up to a ledge(the ledge is the starting point of the west arete) then follow right going crack for 25m. 2 bolts anchor.
Pitch 2: 30m VII+ Follow the obvious crack then some broken rock. (shares the 2 bolt anchor with “West arete”)
Pitch 3: 45m V Go diagonally right over some broken rock (not an obvious line) until you find the traversing crack. Follow the traversing crack until the gully. Communication issues. 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: 30m V Go up the gully. Loose Rocks.(shares the 2 bolt anchor with “West arete”)
Pitch 5: 50m II Follow the arete (on the north side) until you find a small gully with a cypress tree. Go through the gully and the 2 bolt anchor is on the vertical face facing South. (Same pitch with “West arete”)
Pitch 6: 30m III Go up and then follow the rich until you find one bolt on the highest point. (Same pitch with “West arete”) The rappel/abseil anchor is on the south facing wall 1m from the single bolt.
3 rappels/abseils 40m long each (2 bolts each anchor)
Note: The upper half of the first pitch is the first pitch of the old route "Mandarin"
Andreas Theofanous & Theodoros Hadjidemetriou 20/Nov/2016.
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