Rockfax Description
An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the traverse.
Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the higher break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the toppling tall. © Rockfax
FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977.
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alpinelegend69 | 8 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Done after Elegy and didn’t feel quite as out there... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Done after Elegy and didn’t feel quite as out there... |
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Fiend | 15 Jan, 2007 |
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βeta: An exciting voyage along an interesting line of weakness. The fingerholds are joyous, and both cruxes are most satisfying - though be warned, at the time of writing the base of the final crack is pretty green and dank, and it would be frightening scrabble in damp conditions. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An exciting voyage along an interesting line of weakness. The fingerholds are joyous, and both cruxes are most satisfying - though be warned, at the time of writing the base of the final crack is pretty green and dank, and it would be frightening scrabble in damp conditions. |
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FedUp | 19 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Difficult move around the bulge but toproped and obviously safe. Difficult move to the rounded break where I couldn't get a runner. Smeared rightwards and managed to runner the bottom of the wide crack. Gripping but ace! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Difficult move around the bulge but toproped and obviously safe. Difficult move to the rounded break where I couldn't get a runner. Smeared rightwards and managed to runner the bottom of the wide crack. Gripping but ace! |
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sutty | 20 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: On the FA John did not want to use a peg but it was too dangerous without till small nuts came out. Try it without modern pro to see his dilemma. | βeta? | |
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βeta: On the FA John did not want to use a peg but it was too dangerous without till small nuts came out. Try it without modern pro to see his dilemma. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)